There are some sites that I want to visit from the first time I see a picture of them. The Cliff Palace at Mesa Verde has been one of them for several years, and it certainly didn't disappoint.
The tour of the Cliff Palace was really well conducted. Our guide was very informative and friendly evidently reflecting a love of his job. The first view of the "Palace" from the lookout was impressive, but getting down in amongst the ruins was the real highlight. The precarious location has meant that this magnificent feat of engineering has remained in very good condition, with only a few minor modern enhancements. It is incredible to think how these structures were built in this location. Our guide provided answers and various points of view relating to how and why they were created, personally I like this "post-modern" approach to presenting conflicting ideas and answers rather than relying on a basic catch-all narrative. The tour wasn't too physically challenging either.
After the tour we drove off on the Mesa Top loop, this afforded great views of the canyon containing the Cliff Palace, as well as nearly a dozen other clusters of houses tucked under the rim. Another good thing about this drive was that there were remains from earlier structures, showing how settlements progressed from the basic round houses on the Mesa top, through to pueblo like structures and then eventually over the edge to the cliff dwellings. On the way out we had a walk around Spruce Tree house, which was especially notable for having a fully reconstructed Kiva that you could descend into.
We stayed the night before at the slightly underwhelming town of Cortez. However if you are looking for a town in the area to stop, especially if you are coming from the east, then I can thoroughly recommend Durango. It has a quintessentially American main street which is home to several fine micro-breweries and restaurants.
I had been looking forward to visiting Mesa Verde for years and I must admit it didn't disappoint my high expectations.