This is one of the most iconic sites on the whole list, one of the places I always reel off when asked "so what places are world heritage sites then". Alas it seems its fame is due mostly to its shortcomings, leading to some QI style remarks about how prevalent leaning towers are in Italy, or how a town in Germany has one that leans much more. The focus on the campaniles vertical issues does somewhat miss the point though. The 'Field of Miracles' is one of the most astonishing ensembles of Romanesque architecture in Europe.

The long wait and high fees for a climb of the tower rather put me off so instead we headed to the baptistery and cathedral. We were lucky to be the last people to enter the baptistery before a demonstration of its marvellous acoustics, which was a thoroughly enjoyable way to start our exploration. The well proportioned but slightly bare interior did offer lovely views of the surrounding marvels.

My real highlight though was the cathedral, the magnificent bronze doors hid a rather impressive interior with an impressive gilded wood ceiling and innumerable high quality art works. With all the focus on the bell tower it was rather surprising to see such a high quality site right next door.

Yes the notorious leaning tower did bring vast crowds, especially in early august, and yes many people were there only to have their photo taken 'holding it up', but I still found it a very worthwhile visit.

Pisa itself was a nice town by Italian standards (thus it would be outstanding in most European countries) and de'Coltelli by the river served magnificent gelato. It also has an airport very close to the city centre, but it wasn't necessarily as easy to get there and back as it perhaps could have been.

Our swift trip around Pisa was rather rewarding and the astonishing charms of one of Europe's most beautiful architectural ensembles easily overcomes the vast crowds and shortcomings of the travel infrastructure. There is much more to Pisa than some dodgy foundations and taking a step back to peer through the crowds reveals something of real charm.

(Site 7: Experience 5)