First up, I've never seen the Sound of Music. This put me out of kilter with the large crowds in the city centre; this was by no means a bad thing as it allowed me time to discover the wonderful charms of Salzburg without feeling like I was part of some massive coach trip.

I was a little apprehensive that the large numbers of tourists may have taken away from the character of the city, but I needn't have worried. There were enough charming distractions to keep me entertained. My first highlight was stumbling into St Peters Church and graveyard at the end of my first evening, it was delightful little misstep that led me to the catacombs at the base of the hill providing some cool shade on a balmy evening. Having viewed the fortress from the base of the hill I decided it was time to have a hike up, and I was rewarded by magnificent views of both the city and the surrounding mountains over a nice cold weissbier as the sun set.

An evening visit to some kaffehauser and beer gardens ended with a wonderful stroll through the Mirabel gardens accompanied by the singing of children on their way home from a rendition the Sound of Music.

The next day gave me time to revisit some of the highlights, climb a few more hills and settle in for a few more Melanges; a thoroughly enjoyable way to spend any day. I had decided to save a little money by staying in a hostel (perhaps I am just getting a little too old for them now) and this inadvertently led me to my real highlight of the city. Wanting to leave my thoroughly friendly but energetic Brazilian roommates to discuss the previous night's adventures I was left with a few options. The idea of sitting in the hostel bar watching Maria run around after the von Trapp children on a constant loop forced my hand in making me venture out. I was rewarded by magnificent views across the river as I wearily made my way to the Augustiner Bräustübl where things got even better. I don't think I could design a better place to spend an evening than this: a glorious monastery setting, very affordable beer fresh from the vats, hearty food, a bakery, the constant murmur of people conversing, a giant beer garden and a wonderful booth to settle into to write up my adventures, perfect.

Salzburg is very touristy, however as with most places there is a very justifiable reason for it as the city is rather magnificent. Some impressive sites dot the wonderful centre and are accompanied by some really tasty food and drink, with the Augustiner Bräustübl being a real highlight. Well worth a couple of leisurely days, even if you haven't watched the Sound of Music.

[Site 7: Experience 8]