First published: 19/05/06.

Ian Cade 4.5

Sceilg Mhichíl

Sceilg Mhichíl (Inscribed)

Sceilg Mhichíl by Ian Cade

My experience of visiting this site was absolutely fantastic, visiting World Heritage sites can take to the end of the earth, which is almost literally where Skellig Michael was when it was first inhabited. It was to these monastic retreats on the edge of Europe that the western Christian church effectively retreated to after the fall of Rome.

Skellig Michael is the larger of the two Skellig Islands situated some 12km off the coast of County Kerry, and it is home to a small monastery founded in the seventh century. The bulk of the monastery is on one of the islands two peaks and consists of a few small enclosures and several beehive cells (pictured)which the monks lived in year round. Whilst the remains are not massive they are impressive and more considerable than I imagined them to be. It is their setting that makes them spectacular though, they are perched atop a rather large stone hill surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean.

This setting also makes them a fair challenge to get to, the climb from the base of the island is much more precarious than I had imagined, though the accompaniment of a few puffins made it more enjoyable. The dry-stone stair way meanders up the side of the island, at times leaving only sheer cliffs between you and the Atlantic, and as it was originally laid some 1000 years ago it does not provide such modern luxuries as guard rails. This is not a climb I would recommend for a casual afternoon stroll. For me the climb was worth every single moment as the top was breathtaking, the natural setting alone was worth the effort, and the monastery just made me euphoric.

On the other peak there is another small collection of beehive cells, as well as a hermitage, and it is very strongly advised not to visit these, although some people did attempt it once I saw the crossing I could not find the stomach to even contemplate it.

The boat trip out there takes about 1h 30m and be prepared to get very wet, even on calm days. It takes you past Small Skellig (island in picture) which is a birdwatcher’s paradise. Europe’s second largest colony of Gannets dive down from all around, accompanied by Puffins, Guillemots, Seals, Dolphins and a whole host of others to keep you entertained.

Mainland Kerry is also pretty spectacular, especially the drive on the Skellig Ring between Ballinskelligs and Portmagee. The later is the best place I think to head out from as the Skellig Experience museum is there and it is also the home port of Des Lavelle the very friendly and endlessly informative historian of the island, I would recommend hunting him out. In 2006 it cost €40 for the trip giving you about 2 hours on the island enough time to get up down and have a picnic on the way.

This shows the joy of visiting UNESCO sites, without its listing I would probably have never heard of it but my visit was one of the best experiences I have had. I rank the sites I visit out of 10 and this one received a 9, not bad as only the Grand Canyon and Rome received full marks. If you are reasonably fit, have a few days on your hands, and a bit of nerve for the climb I cannot recommend a site any stronger than this one.

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