Alto Douro is the part of the river valley where natural conditions conspired to create a unique environment for wine production that dates back over 2,000 years. Fortified wine – the port – may be the signature product, but various kinds of table wine have been becoming more prominent since about the middle of the last century. My affinity for wine notwithstanding, I have never before managed a visit to a WHS that would actually revolve around wine. So, the trip to Alto Douro was the first of a kind for me: primarily a wine-tasting trip that was also a qualified WH visit.

The stretch of the river between the towns of Peso da Régua and Pinhão is the heart of the region, possessing both the most dramatic landscapes and the highest concentration of wineries (called quintas in Portuguese). We planned our time around driving along that stretch (less than 30 kilometers in length), with several targeted stops for exploring and taking in the scenery.

Régua is worth stopping in for the Museum of Douro, a very thorough – without being overwhelming – overview of both the history and the modern process of winemaking in the region. On an intraday visit to the area, you may want to limit your time here to an hour or so, which will allow for a fairly cursory look at the majority of the exhibits. An entrance ticket entitles you to a glass of port in the museum shop at the end of your visit.

Between Régua and Pinhão, we visited 4 quintas; along the way, just a few minutes out of Régua, river locks may provide a bit of diversion if a cruise ship happens by at that time. 

At Quinta do Tedo, in addition to a tasting flight of 3 table wines, we had a lunch on the terrace with a pretty incredible view. (Reservations recommended for lunch).

At Quinta do Panascal, we took advantage of the self-guided audio tour around the vineyard. The narration of the guide explained and illustrated quite a few specifics of growing grapes on the steep slopes of the valley mountains and of producing different types of wine. A tasting flight of 3 wines is included in the price of the tour.

At Quinta do Seixo, sitting high above the river, we sipped our wine while gazing at the sweeping views of the valley. There are literally dozens of a la carte and set flight choices for tasting on the menu.

Finally, at Quinta das Carvalhas, we enjoyed another superb tasting flight in an old-world-accented lounge. The price of a flight is slightly higher here, but inclusive of a tawny port in addition to the usual 3 table wines.

Peso da Régua is reachable in a little over an hour and a half by car from Porto. Four or five wineries will probably be a one-day limit for practically everyone, so for those who want to try more, an overnight stay in Pinhão might be an option. Most wineries offer walk-in tastings; if you want to take a guided tour, you may need to reserve in advance and plan to arrive at a specific time (Quinta do Panascal mentioned above is the exception).