First published: 09/07/24.

Ilya Burlak 3.0

Arequipa

Arequipa (Inscribed)

Arequipa by Ilya Burlak

I visited Arequipa in May of 2024, possibly very close to the time that Dennis was there as well, and truth be told, I have little to add to his review. Arequipa is a type of town I usually label "not without interest" - a different way of saying "pleasant but not exceptional". The volcano peaks and the volcanic rock material used in construction add a bit of appeal. Mestizo Baroque church portals offer occasional eye-catching details, as do a number of buildings within the historic core grid. The overall ensemble, though, is no more than fine.

Santa Catalina Monastery is one unmissable attraction, a colorful city within the city. The painted Capilla de San Ignacio at La Compania is another highlight. Santa Teresa Monastery holds a reasonable collection of viceregal art, and the painted Chapter Hall justifies the few dollars of entry price all by itself. Other churches are more or less similar to each other in having outstanding portal decorations, fairly muted interiors, and rich altars.

The main square is an impressive public space, surrounded by portico-ed buildings on three sides and presided over by the cathedral on the fourth. I was not able to go inside the grand church – unlike elsewhere, it was off-limits for tourists sporting large cameras during masses and closed at other times while I was in town. I suspect it would be another highlight. Puente Grau, a historic bridge built from sillar, is among many points with great perspectives towards El Misti, the most iconic of Arequipa peaks. There are other points of interest within the easily walkable core zone, such as Mercado San Camilo or Museo Santuarios Andinos which is focused on Inka sacrificial practices with the well-preserved body of one such human sacrifice as the centerpiece.

I was more impressed with Ruta del Sillar than Dennis, in a "where else can you see that" kind of way. It is an undisputably made-for-tourist attraction, so I get how mileage may vary, but I did not feel that the sculpture park took anything away. Visiting the quarry with a competent local guide offered a good supplemental value for understanding the uniqueness of Arequipa sillar construction. Although it is not in any way part of the inscribed property - it is, in fact, half an hour outside of the city center - I would have probably rated Arequipa slightly lower without going to Ruta del Sillar.

A full day feels like plenty of time to see all there is to see in town.

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