The sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte is comparatively young for a religious site – the pilgrimage church dates only from the 17th century, and the current ensemble was fully established less than 200 years ago. This ensemble, especially the Baroque stairway leading up to the main church, features in many travelogues of Northern Portugal as a wonder to behold. It is also up for enshrinement on WH list this year, which played a role in pushing it into a must category on my recent Portuguese itinerary.

The main part of the stairway is a truly impressive sight, even under rainy skies that accompanied my visit. As a non-believer, I can only guess the impact it must have on the actual pilgrims, who are encouraged to make the ascent on their knees.

The total number of steps from the parking lot at the foot of the hill to the church floor is 582 by my on-the-spot count. Over half of that total is along the park-like lower portion of the climb and roughly 200 steps comprise the gorgeous symmetrical zigzag stairway.

The vibrant church interior is headlined by the altar, uncommonly designed as a diorama. Half of the interior was covered in scaffolding due to renovation work. Even in this circumstance, lingering in the church was well justified. I imagine the final outcome of renovation will be entirely jaw-dropping.

Bom Jesus do Monte can be reached in about 45 minutes from Porto by car. My visit, including climbing the entire 582 steps up, spending a bit of time in the church, and then descending back down lasted under an hour. In good weather, I suspect I would have lingered on the various landings of the staircase a bit longer. For those who do not want to or cannot climb the steps, a funicular provides an alternative, but it has a limited schedule. You could also attempt to drive up the hill and park closer to the church. If you choose either of these less-taxing options, you owe it to yourself to walk down and then back up at least 100 or so steps, or you’ll miss the main part of the attraction.