First published: 12/02/20.

Ilya Burlak 0

Caesarea

Caesarea (On tentative list)

Caesarea by Ilya Burlak

By the time I came to Caesarea, I was already having a mild case of archaeology overload from my time in Israel over two weeks in November of 2019, so I suspect I moved through the site too quickly. A true student of ancient history could likely spend 3-4 hours here easily – and will probably benefit from having a guide on hand. I still got the impression that the place was worth visiting while keeping myself to the major points of interest.

There are layers of structures and street networks in the principal part of the archaeological site. As everywhere, the surviving arches are among the most eye-catching artifacts. In some places, parts of original mosaics can still be seen. And, of course, remains of the places of worship are also quite picturesque. The huge open space that is the remains of a Herodian Amphitheater is among the main impressive features. The Roman Theatre, also built in Herodian times, is the most ancient of all theatres found in Israel.

Medieval fortified city with a few points of interest adjoins the archaeological part of Caesarea. There is an outdoor mall and entertainment complex in the Caesarea Harbor which is basically at the heart of the old city. It actually comes to life in the late afternoon around the time the archaeological site closes its doors; somewhat uniquely among Israeli national parks, parts of the archaeological ruins can be accessed for free outside of the park’s opening hours. Of course, the majority of people who come here in the evening are looking for food, shopping and entertainment that has nothing to do with the centuries of history herewith. Which, to me, is among the key factors why I do not think that this site deserves to be inscribed (if Israel ever rejoins UNESCO in the first place). It does, however, afford a person who spent time at the park an opportunity to have a dinner on the waterfront while catching the sunset.

Caesarea is located roughly half-way between Tel Aviv and Haifa, reachable from either in about 35-40 minutes by car. Standard itineraries frequently combine it into the “seaside corridor” with Haifa and Acre. If you have the Israel Pass “orange card” (which allows one entry to practically all national parks in the space of two weeks), entrance to Caesarea is included with that.

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