On our itinerary around Portugal in April of 2019 we covered all of the monasteries in the "triangle" north of Lisbon. Alcobaça is the unflashiest of the three, but also clearly the most cared for. The imposing main church façade of Alcobaça is probably the most time-stained part of the complex, whereas everything else bears clear signs of careful upkeep. (Incidentally, putting the word façade next to the monastery name might help those not familiar with diacritics in correctly pronouncing the last consonant in Alcobaça).

The monastery was established in the 12th century by the first king of Portugal, Afonso Henriques. It is primarily a Gothic structure, with some Baroque and Manueline influences added later on. The exuberant Manueline style is widely seen at other monasteries – in comparison, Alcobaça is almost subdued.

The central feature of the complex is the Cloister of Dinis, also known as the Cloister of Silence. At a first glance it may appear no more than pretty and even a bit bland – but that is only until you begin noticing details. Look at the rose windows above the ground-level arches - no two of them are of the same design. Examine the column capitals - they are also all distinct, showing an abundance of fantasy and design. Gargoyles are nothing short of delightful. And so on.

Beyond the cloisters, there are several interior spaces of note, the most impressive of which are the Hall of Kings, with statues of Portuguese monarchs and the show-stealing azulejo-covered walls; and the kitchen, centered on an enormous chimney.

Logistics: A little over an hour is sufficient time for the visit. The surrounding precincts of the town of Alcobaça are worth a stroll through. If you are driving from Lisbon, it should take just over an hour to reach Alcobaça. All three monasteries in the "triangle" are included for free on the Lisboa Card; the card is a great value for any stay in Lisbon, and if you plan to spend a day out of the city exploring monasteries, consider getting a longer-period card that will include that day.