Despite its small size, Ecuador boasts a large number of sights.  Even setting aside Galapagos Islands, mainland Ecuador possesses many natural attractions, especially for birdwatchers and hikers.  Ecuador also has a number of cultural or human-made sights, and Cuenca is one of its better urban destinations.  Although I would not say that Cuenca was the highlight of my 2016 Ecuador trip (hiking the mountain villages of Quilotoa wins that distinction), I do think of the attractive city as a noteworthy part of my itinerary.

I went to Cuenca by bus from a small town called Alausi.  I had been in Alausi to embark on La Nariz del Diablo (The Devil's Nose) train, which zig-zags down the rocky slopes of the Andes.  I understand that the train ride service did not survive the COVID-19 pandemic and is unfortunately no longer operating.

I arrived in Cuenca at night and, by fortunate happenstances, was greeted by fireworks bursting above Cuenca's most famous landmark, the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception.  While the Cathedral - with its unmissable sky-blue domes - dominates most discussions about Cuenca's sights, the historical city has many other churches and monasteries to explore.  I specifically found interesting the 'old cathedral' El Sagrario - located across the Cathedral on the other side of the leafy Parque Calderón - and the Museo del Monasterio de las Conceptas.  Both of these sites contained religious wood figures, which had faces that were more eerie than divine.  If you had your fill of the colonial period, then you can visit the Museo de Arte Moderno or the darkly quirky Prohibido Museo de Arte Extremo for a change of pace.

I stayed in Cuenca for four days, but on two of these days I went on day trips to Parque Nacional Cajas and Ingapirca.  I enjoyed both day trips very much, but I slightly preferred the moody national park over the Inca ruins.  However, they are very different sights, so I hesitate to recommend one over the other.  I mention these day trips to note that I don't think Cuenca itself necessitates a four-day stay, unless one enjoys a more leisurely pace to their travel.  Most of Cuenca's attractions are small enough and often near each other that one could visit most of them in two days.