N.B. I typically don't do reviews, but after being nudged by others-and the fact that it has been over 10 years since the last review, I decided to give in and write something.

When I was a young child I would go on this website in its early days and look up the reviews of Solivagant. I read/re-read those reviews and my heart would swoon thinking that I too would want to go to those places when I am older... So, are the ruins and the citadel any different? Has the visiting experience changed 23 or 11 years later? At the time of my visit in early Dec 2023, the border between the DR and Haiti was closed due to a canal dispute. This made the option of heading there by bus not available at the time, meaning that I would have to fly into Cap-Haïtien from Fort Lauderdale and catch another flight to Santo Domingo (leaving from Fort Lauderdale). Haiti has been in the news recently, and not for positive characteristics! Thankfully the problems are in Port-au-Prince away from the site and city of arrival. But, those who knew my plan were still nervous for me as there was still a risk for things to go wrong! 

Getting into the site, we took a tour (personalized and private as there wasn't anyone else sightseeing in Haiti at the time of visit) that arranged for transport to the two ruins from the hotel and the horses needed for the final climb. I used Safe Trips Haiti and was able to arrange the pickup times, visit order to my desire. There are others that do this trip as well, for example, Augusnel Tour- another agency I used to get to/from the airport and he was very professional. I didn't try to use public transportation, but I do guess it is possible for those comfortable with the language.

There are other lodging options available besides listed in the bottom review. Habitation des Lauriers (typically used by those in the Every Passport Stamp Facebook group) and Hotel Satama, which I stayed at (this one you can see on Youtube vlogs that involve vacations in Cap-Haïtien). These hotels seem to be on hills separating them from the "downtown proper." Although there were times that made me feel uncomfortable, by and large I felt very safe considering what is going on in the country. 

The visit itself was a once in a lifetime experience. Leaving the hotel at 7:00 AM we were whisked to the town of Milot with minimal traffic and clear skies (before the trip the forecast said that it would rain). We approached the gates to the ruins with the remains of the historic chapel (burned in 2020) on our right side fenced off with stray goats wandering about! We were then approached by the tour guide as well as an individual who volunteered to take our photos on our phones (seemed like he wanted a tip!). The photo in this review is the initial view of the site. Henri Christophe who was the king of the northern part of Haiti constructed the palace between 1810-1813, after his tumultuous end the palace was ransacked and an earthquake in 1842 destroyed the building to its current state. The ruins were incredible as we had the entire place to ourselves, the guide walked us through remains of the dining hall, throne room, stables, and housing for the guards, etc. The view from behind (which served as the palace gardens) gave a more complete view of the Versailles-like facade. 

After the visit to the palace remains, we headed up the mountain by car to a parking area flanked by houses turned souvenir stalls. The lack of tourism in recent years shows as it seems the entire neighborhood tries to desperately sell you trinkets and paintings. The horses are handed off (highly recommend, it's a very steep climb with little shade), and away you go. A helmet wasn't given, but there are three men who steady the saddle and speed or slow down the horse at will. On the way up, kids and others serenade you with horns and drums. In the distance on top of a peak, the citadel becomes visible. Heading up, the vista of the whole valley and ultimately the sea becomes visible as the sheer size of the fortress becomes evident as one walks by the point of the fortress (like a ship). The highlights include a wide arrange of cannons and cannon balls, stories of mandated labor, and the eventual burial of Christophe in quicklime. On a clear day one can see all the way to the coast. You can hike to the Ramiers site behind the citadel. We didn't as we were a bit tired already and it is somewhat farther than it appears. A view from the citadel to the site was sufficient for us. 

This was a fantastic site and illustrates what the World Heritage List does best- bring attention to places that aren't well known. If it weren't for the list (or this website) I wouldn't have known much about the place or be willing to travel to Haiti. The whole experience was inspiring enough for me to give in and write a review. The town of Milot would surely like to have some visitors and there were talks about further development of the town to accommodate future tourists. I couldn't think of many other cultural WHS in North America where I had the whole place to myself. If you do brave the journey to Haiti (or Hispaniola when the border reopens), be sure to include this site as it gives a fascinating look into a chapter of history seldom discussed.