First published: 12/12/23.

Jarek Pokrzywnicki

Banska Stiavnica

Banska Stiavnica (Inscribed)

Banska Stiavnica by Jarek Pokrzywnicki

Site visited in May 2023, shortly after the fire that destroyed part of historic houses in the strict center of Banska Stiavnica. 

That was my second visit to Banska Stavnica (first was in 1993), so after 30 years I had a chance to see the results of devastating fire and overall changes of city look-out from the early nineties. I hardly recognized the city. In 1993 it was neglected with hardly no open restaurants, lots of buildings were scratched, some city palaces were just transferred to hotels / hostels and overall impression was somehow disappointing. Currently it is completely the opposite. Historic center is full of cafes, art galleries, boutique hotels. The majority of houses (with exception of few) are restored and well maintained. I also realized that world heritage status is accorded to quite substantial territory – not only historical Old Town of Banska Stiavnica but also surrounding villages (Svätý Anton, Banská Belá, Hodruša-Hámre, Vyhne). If you see the official map of inscribed property it is really a huge area.

As focus my visit on the places previously not visited or changed substantially I started from Calvary Hill. Not long ago this unique site due to decaying conditions was placed on list of the 100 most endangered monuments in the world (World Monuments Fund). From 2007 thanks to local efforts and international support process of comprehensive restoration was started and currently you can see the results. All chapels, churches are beautifully restored, everything is well prepared for mass visiting (plates describing monuments in Slovak and English). Additionally there is a perfect panorama of surrounding area from the top of the conical hill.

More about the Calvary https://www.kalvaria.org/historia/

After Calvary I moved to the historic center of Banska Stiavnica to assess the consequences of fire in the town. In the beginning of May it was still a fresh accident. The fire took place during the day of 18 of March, 2023 and caused destructions to many historical houses near Holy Trinity Square (Námestie svätej Trojice), eastern part. In May the area affected with fire was fenced, with no access for public. Affected houses from Berggericht (opposite the Holy Trinity column) up to Love Bank (opposite St. Catherine church) were provisionally secured with temporary roofing but you can spot from outside that most of the interiors were substantially destroyed. Photographs displayed on the fence presented conditions of each building before the fire as well as detailed views afterwards. Lots of restoration works were still going on (museum, Love House).

Here you can find more info about the fire https://spectator.sme.sk/c/23148098/banska-stiavnica-unesco-fire.html

Another object that was not unable to visit in the 90-ties is so called Old Castle located nearby Holy Trinity Square. It is a former gothic church converted to stronghold (castle) during the period of Turkish thread (XVI century). Currently Old Castle houses good museum (history of the town, smithery, farming equipment, church sculptures, frescos in the chapel). After paying entrance fee (8 Euro per adult person) you will receive a plan and booklet in English for self-guiding. From the top of castle walls (and towers) there are excellent views of the town.

This time I skipped all places connected with mining activities but I can recommend local mine - open-air mining museum (Banské múzeum v prírode) located to the south of the city (Jozefa Karola Hella 12). More about the mine https://www.muzeumbs.sk/en/mine-museum-in-nature

Also, while in the town do not miss New Castle, Knocking Towe (Klopacka) , St Catherine church, Piargska Gate, Glanzenberg Adit (guided tours). Overall experience was very satisfactory but if you want to visit all the places one day may not be enough, especially if you want to explore the area outside Banska Stiavnica.

Practicalities As arrived with own car I had only problems with parking in the center. Parking spaces near Calvary Hill (Parkovisko - Kalvária Banská Štiavnica, google coordinates 48.4617560745227, 18.908220411813627 may be full, so better option is to use side streets (watch for sighs as some parts are accessible for residents only). For city center – good parking space is near Akademicka Street (google coordinates 48.45888928407684, 18.89767021601208)

Accommodation: many options, different standards and prices. As my initial choice was cancelled, after some efforts in finding accommodation, finally found Penzión Kremenisko ( 48°26'04.0"N 18°55'50.7"E), rather midrange place lying in core area of WHS limits.

Places on the photo, bottom left, than clockwise: View from Old Castle, destroyed house, Old Castle – interior church, Calvary Hill

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