Bacalar Chico national park and marine reserve

Site visited recently, February 2023. With limited time (as always) I decided to visit only small part of the site. Also due to flights schedules I was unable to fly to Blue Hole (no flight on the specific day) I decided to limit my visit only to Bacalar Chico national park and marine reserve as the only relatively accessible (and inexpensive) land component of Belize Barrier Reef.

Access to Bacalar Chico looked as fairly possible form San Pedro town / Ambergris Caye. In fact I arrived by ferry from Belize City to San Pedro (route via Caye Caulker) and immediately started to find out the possibilities of reaching the site. On the map it looked as quite remote but accessible via local road north of San Pedro town. But my host at the hotel who was a former biologist once working for Bacalar Chico strongly advised not to go there alone and certainly not by ordinary bike (because of bad roads, occasional sharp objects or due to problems with security – smuggling narcotics towards Mexican border). He tried to find an organised tour (by boat) to go there but unfortunately there was nothing at my specific date. So his advise afterwards was to go there by golf cart (the most popular transportation mode in San Pedro). But as an experienced biker I decided to rent a bike anyway and realize where I would manage to get on my own.

Next morning I had rent an ordinary (non-electric) bike and headed north. The road from San Pedro via Boca del Rio Bridge at the beginning was quite normal. Paved, after few kilometres it turned to be gravel road. From around this point 18.040434, -87.894967 you have to turn right and follow sandy path. Next part is not paved and leads close to the seaside. After several kilometres around Tranquillity Bay Resort (google coordinates 18.092484, -87.869746, no worry even if there is no path on google maps – there is one in reality) you can reach Bacalar Chico Marine Reserve (table). It is around 26 km from central San Pedro.

Frankly speaking the area around looks pretty ordinary. No big difference comparing to places near San Pedro. Seashore is pretty littered, coconut palms grow as everywhere, water filled with seaweeds. There are no tourist. Barrier reef is visible in the sea within 400-500 meters from the beach (better views are further north). Inland part – difficult access, no paths. Side road leading west terminates at private estate entrance, further west marshy areas with occasional reef rocks.

Summarizing the trip by bike – quite exhausting, especially the sandy parts. Access with golf carts fairly possible. In fact it is the only relatively cheap option to visit a part of Belize Barrier Reef (core area). It is not the same impressions as snorkelling or diving within reefs in the ocean or admiring Blue Hole from above  but at least it is budgetary way to see the site.

Practicalities:

Stayed overnight at Ambergris Sunset Hotel (50 USD per double room with A/C, close to ferry terminal in San Pedro, google coordinates 17.920898, -87.962749).

Bike rented from Breez E-bike Rentals San Pedro (google coordinates: 17.918955, -87.962325), website: (https://www.breezebikerentals.com/). Bike rates: 15 USD per half a day (5 hours) or 25 USD per full day, they have also electric bikes (starting from 50 USD per half a day), deposit 250 USD. For that price you get also locker, helmet and a bottle of water.

Golf cart rentals (there are a lot of them) 4-seated starts from 35 USD per day (+ fuel cost). Going by cart – you will have to pay for Boca del Rio Bridge, bikes do not pay.

San Pedro town has plenty of shops / supermarkets and restaurants / pubs although prices may be a little bit higher comparing to mainland (bottled water is quite expensive).

Security: I felt pretty safe but always remembered about security precaution from my hotel owner. I had phone loaded, had also power bank with me just in case. Off-line map of the area (maps.me) but not all the paths were presented on the map. I did not encounter any awkward situation but it does not mean it never happen.

Ferry from Belize City to San Pedro (https://belizewatertaxi.com) – it is better to buy also return ticket (56,5 USD per passenger, for return trip you do not need to indicate specific dates). It takes 1,5 hours to get to San Pedro, departures from Belize City at 8.00, 9.00, 10.30, 12.00, 13.30, 15.00, 16.30 and last one at 17.30. Return from San Pedro at 6.00, 7.00, 8.30, 10.00, 11.30, 13.00, 15.00 and last one at 16.30.

Places on the photo, bottom left, than clockwise: Inland part, marine part (seaweed), table at the entrance, part of reef rocks (inland)