First published: 30/12/22.

Jarek Pokrzywnicki

Hejaz Railway

Hejaz Railway (On tentative list)

Hejaz Railway by Jarek Pokrzywnicki

Site (or to be more precise: sites) visited recently, November 2022. Searching for future inscriptions in a country relatively new within UNESCO structures can bring such sites like Hejaz Railway. While preparing the trip I found that it could be easy to see some of the designated places on a way from Medina to Madâin Sâlih.

Visiting railway station in Medina was quite promising. The building was recently restored and converted to well-equipped and maintained museum. Part of exhibits are connected with railway and its history, most of others are about overall Saudi Arabia, all descriptions in Arabic and English. Very interesting as the museum provides basic information about history and context of constructing Hejaz Railway. Main problem starts if you want to visit station outside museum building. Unfortunately the area with other railway buildings and wagon (looking as open-air museum) was closed – probably open in the late afternoon (possibly from 5 p.m.). Unfortunately I was there around noon but luckily one of the doors were opened so I had a chance for a quick walk within station premises before being taken back to the museum.

Next stop was the first real railway station – at Makheet (outskirts of Medina) shown on Maps.me as mhtt mkhyt – qtar alhjaz. Located few hundred meters outside modern village it consist of the station itself (Mahattat Muhit) and a kind of fort / caravanserai . Both buildings are partly ruined, fenced with no access for visitors. No railways are preserved although a railway embankment is partly visible. There are also ruins of military post on the hill and observation tower. Place look as completely abandoned and what is pretty sad it is treated as a place to leave garbage.

Another station was at Al -Hafeerah (Mahattat Hafirah) – some 25 km for Makheet, express road Medina – Tabuk (15). The station consisted of two buildings just few meters from the main road. Same layout of the station as previous one. Two buildings, both fenced but this time the doors were partly open with a possibility to go inside and explore interior (frankly speaking both interiors were not prepared for visiting, some areas looked fully neglected with lots of garbage, some looked unsecure – huge holes in the ground, exploring second floor at your own risk). Railway embankment still visible although partly destroyed. No railways left.

Next station – Bwatt (mhtt bwat, Mahattat Buwatah) – same layout, two buildings located near side road. Both buildings closed, partly ruined, fenced, with no possibility to go inside. Similarly to the previous one – railway embankment still visible but in very poor condition.

Subsequent station Beer Nassif (Mahattat Al-Anqa, mhtt byr nsyf) – similar layout, two fenced buildings but this time station was accessible via opened door. Unfortunately similarly unprepared for visiting – staircase for second floor partly destroyed, no information in English. Area looked as a bit neglected.

Next station Al Buwayr (mhtt albwyr, qtar alhjaz) – finally something more than previously seen – partly preserved railroads, some wagons, locomotive. Layout is pretty similar to all other stations but preserved infrastructure and machinery indicates plans for future museum. Currently closed and fenced but can be seen from outside.

The rest of the stations (with the exception of Estable Antar) are located outside main road to Al Ula so I decided to skip them. While in Al Ula, and on official Madâin Sâlih tour there is a possibility to see Al Uthaib station, same layout as all others.

Another potentially interesting places are Al Ula Station (and Hejaz Railway Cars) and Hegra Raiway Museum (currently closed)

Basic facts about Hejaz Raiway – Constructed during Ottoman Empire from 1900 to 1908 to facilitate pilgrimages to Islamic holy places (and unofficially strengthen Ottoman control over the most distant provinces of the empire hence military buildings within all the stations). It run from Damascus to Medina, total 1320 km. After construction used for only 8 years when Arabian revolt (inspired by British officers) destroyed Maan – Medina leg. After the end of IWW only certain sections of the railway were utilized in Syria, Transjordan and Palestine, mostly as cargo freight.

Practicalities: Medina Station is located in the centre of the town (the same with Al Ula), other stations require own transportation. Most of them are currently located in the middle of nowhere and you need a decent map to get there. Chances of future inscription – they may be higher with joint nomination (KSA + Syria + Jordan) but even than there are still much more historical railways in the world better preserved, maintained including those much older.

More about railway: https://www.visitsaudi.com/en/do/culture/the-hijaz-railway

Places on the photo, bottom left, than clockwise: Makheet fort, Medina Station, interior of Hafeerah Station, locomotive at Al Buwayr Station.

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