
Site just visited (December, 2020), not an easy time to visit Turkey during covid-pandemic restrictions. As all other reviews are focused on main component and the most spectacular part of the heritage I will describe other places.
First of all - consider to spend some more time in Bergama (Pergamon). All the sites are scattered around the city. Also the main component - space around Acropolis / Asclepion and the lower (Ottoman) town (multi layered city) covers itself relatively big area. Even if all paid areas were closed due to coronavirus I spent almost full day exploring the area and wandering the streets of Ottoman town.
While describing I will use official names from our website.
Kybele Sanctuary at Kapikaya, located some 7 km north from central Bergama. On a basis of coordinates from our website the site is located on a rocky hill. It seems as there is no access from the main road (Kozak Bergama Yolu) – the rocks are too steep. Also no access from the side road to the left (fenced houses). I did not find any path leading to the site. There are no signposts nor guideposts in the area. As I had heavy rain I did not try to get closer. But at least all the area around the rocks is a buffer zone.
Ilyas Tepe Tumulus – located on the hill next to Acropolis. As in previous site there are no signposts / guideposts of the place in the area. I tried to reach it from the area near the dam but since it was still raining I quit. Again – area between the hills is located within a buffer zone.
Yigma Tepe Tumulus – the biggest of all tumuli in Pergamon, surrounded by modern houses in residential district of Bergama. Site also unmarked but at least thanks to its size is visible from certain distance. Looks a little bit neglected, treated as local garbage damp.
Ikili Tumuli – located near main road, looks totally neglected. Unmarked, treated as local car parking and place to leave rubbish. There are some stone structures in the middle showing excavations but overall the site is somehow depressing.
Tavsan Tepe Tumulus – located in the outskirts of the town, totally inaccessible as it surrounded by fenced, industrial areas. Plot is partly covered with olive trees and looks well preserved, maybe thanks to inaccessibility. Also unmarked but visible from the main road.
Pergamon: X Tepe Tumulus – another place that is simply left alone. Unmarked, treated locally as garbage dump, looks like normal hill, accessible, unfenced. Impressions are similar to those from Ikili Tumuli.
Pergamon: A Tepe Tumulus – looks like located on private property, fenced, there are also tables stating that the place is monitored by cameras (auto service station). Placed just opposite to Tavsan Tepe Tumulus (across the main road). It looks as pile of soil covered with olive bushes. As in other places there are no guideposts showing it is an UNESCO heritage area.
Pergamon: Maltepe Tumulus – state of preservation similar to other tumuli although this one has a partly destroyed table with description in Turkish / English. This one has an entrance (closed) to the interior, unfortunately, it is also treated as local garbage dump (even used furniture are there).
Main component – central Bergama, including Acropolis, Asclepion, area around Red Hall (Temple of Egyptian Gods). Unfortunately Acrolopolis, Asclepion and Red Hall were closed for a while (covid procedures) so I decided to focus on other places within UNESCO limits. Many Ottoman houses, narrow streets, different monuments but most of the area looks like shantytown. There are many destroyed houses, some are completely abandoned (Talatpasa, Islamsaray, Ulucami), main river (Selinos) is full of rubbish.
During my short Turkish trip I also saw Bursa – what a big difference in monument’s management. Those in Bursa are all recently restored, almost all of them are described, completety the opposite in Bergama. I guess that during inscription process they should also present a kind of Management Plan for the city. Whatever that was it does not exist in practice.
Practicalities: I stayed overnight at Serapion Hotel (Fatih, Atatürk Blv. No:109, 35700 Bergama) rather budget accommodation, located within a buffer zone close to X Tepe Tumulus. There are many other places to stay in the area - on the opposite there is an Ayvazali Hotel looks more modern. There are also several hostels/hotels in Ottoman Bergama area. Food, like in every Turkish town you can find everywhere, During pandemic period they mostly serve take away but it is not very strict.
Places on the photo, bottom left, than clockwise: Talatpasa (Ottoman district, close to Acropolis), A Tepe Tumulus, Ikili Tumuli, Talatpasa (Ottoman district, lower part, close to Red Hall).
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