First published: 22/05/21.

Jarek Pokrzywnicki

Talamanca Range-La Amistad Reserves

Talamanca Range-La Amistad Reserves (Inscribed)

Talamanca Range-La Amistad Reserves by Jarek Pokrzywnicki

Site visited during Panama – Costa Rica trip (November, 2017) – since Els carefully described Costa Rican part of this serial heritage I will focus on Panamanian side. Technically, this National Park in Panama is divided in two sections: Las Nubes (in the south of Talamanca Range, Chiriquí Province) and Wekso (northern part, Bocas del Toro Province, more interesting, but far more difficult to get).

As I was travelling from Coiba National Park by public transport I went only to Las Nubes. It is possible to get from Santa Catalina (main access village for Coiba snorkeling activities) to Cerro Punta (central village around Talamanca Range) within one day. The journey requires 3 different buses and some luck. From Santa Catalina you should take first bus to Santiago de Varaguas, than change to the one for David, and change again there for the final trip to Cerro Punta (via Volcan). With a bit of luck you should arrive late in the afternoon to Cerro Punta. As hotels at central Cerro Punta were closed that time for unknown reason I moved closer (to Talamanca) to the village called Guadalupe, some 3-4 km from the center of Cerro Punta; place with its own shop (supermercado), restaurant and hotels (hostels), everything within walking distance.

Next day, with the help of organized local taxi lift I went to the Las Nubes section (the entrance is around 7 km from the village, google coordinates: 8°53'26.6"N 82°36'39.6"W). As in other National Parks in Panama you have to buy an entrance ticket (5 USD for foreigners / extranjeros). Around the Ranger’s Station it is also possible to camp (6 USD), there is also a small Visitor’s Center as well as some maps of surrounding area. Only a small portion of National Park is designed for tourism – there are 3 different hiking paths (or to be specific only 2 as the third of those paths are just a 400 m walk around Ranger’s Station). Both of the longer trails are only 2,5 - 4 km long, they are well marked, not very demanding and can be wandered without any guide. Sendero La Cascada – go and return the same way – as the name reveals – directs to the local waterfall (some 10 m high) and Sendero El Retono is the circle around the Ranger’s Station. On both trails you go through typical rainforest, there is abundance of flowers, plants, insects and birds but at least with my case no bigger animals. Anyway – have in mind that you are located in the mountains (2300 – 2400 m above sea level), so weather conditions may change rapidly (during rain some parts of the trails can be slippery).

To be honest I found that part of Talamanca Range less impressive comparing to other natural heritage places in the area (Darien, Los Katios, Coiba, Guanacaste). Maybe that’s because only a small portion of it can be visited within Las Nubes section and that is located close to populated areas. While reading about Wekso section, it certainly sounds more interesting – there is a local native Indian community, access is more demanding (including two different buses and boat / collectivo ride).

Practicalities: stayed overnight in Guadalupe - Chumbaga Bed and Breakfast (they are available on FB https://www.facebook.com/hostal.chumbaga.39?ref=py_c ), pretty descent accommodation, with (that time) reasonable prices. There were some other options in Guadalupe but they were more expensive or fully booked. Guadalupe is located in the mountainous area (the highest mountain in Panama – Volcan Baru 3474 m – is located nearby) – the nights may be cool, even if the days are hot (that was the case in November). Transportation in the area: walk, taxi or hitch – hike. Transport for Costa Rica – border crossing at Paso Canoas – you don’t have to go back to David. Better and faster is to go to La Concepcion on Panamericana. From La Concepcion there are frequent buses to the border.

Places on the photo, bottom left, than clockwise: Ranger’s Station, typical flower in the rainforest, main entrance to National Park, mirador La Nevera (2490 m. above sea level)

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