Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum is definitely worth the planning it requires to visit this underground tomb complex. Hypogeum literally means underground, and this site lay dormant and forgotten below the surface in Malta for almost 4,500 years, when it was rediscovered by construction workers in 1902. The complex became a site of great interest to archaeologists studying neolithic cultures in Malta, and within a few years it was also opened to visitors. The humidity and lighting they used caused damage to the hypogeum over time, so between 1991 and 2017 the site was closed twice in order to install systems to regulate the temperature and humidity of the underground complex. Heritage Malta also instituted a limit of ten visitors per hour to the tomb, which is why this site requires planning in order to secure a ticket to participate in a tour. Tickets may be reserved in advance for certain timed tours during the day, or may be secured as last minute tickets for the 1200 and 1600 tour on a limited basis the day before.

The tour itself was very informative, with a movie and a guide explaining the significance of the culutre and the hypogeum. After the introduction, we walked down into the tomb complex, with the guide leading the way. My group was considerate enough to make sure everyone was able to see the intricate carvings and chambers with their niches and lintels. The ocher paintings with spirals were neat to see on the ceiling, and the audio guide explained the acoustics that could be heard in the chamber. My favorite parts of the tour were the views of both the Main Chamber and the so called Holy of Holies. Unfortunately no photography is allowed inside the chambers, although Heritage Malta, which runs the site, does sell postcards. I highly recommend taking the time to visit Ħal Saflieni when in Malta.

Logistics: I missed my stop on the bus ride to Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, but it is feasible to take buses from the main bus terminal in front of the main gate to Valletta to the vicinity of the Hypogeum (Paola); I'd recommend looking online for current information.