Provins was inscribed as a World Heritage Site for its role as an early trade fair town dating back to the 11th century, so I figured the best way to experience the city would be to visit during its annual fair. Two weeks ago on a Saturday morning I boarded a train from Paris that slowly filled up with peasants and knights and ladies and... elves? Yes, this was the right place to be for Les Médiévales de Provins.

The central location of Provins in northeastern France and its connections via overland trade routes to much of Europe made it a prime location for annual trade fairs. The city is walled and built on a rocky outcrop, which provided protection for the merchants in attendance. The streets of the upper town are wide for carriage traffic, and interspersed with squares, where the fairs would be held. The merchants would store their goods in underground vaulted cellars while conducting their trade. These medieval fairs were not intended to be primarily recreational, and were more akin to modern day trade shows, with merchants selling wool and cloth and leather and furs.

The annual medieval festival in Provins is intended to be recreational, but it gives an approximation of how busy the town must have been when the fairs were in their medieval heyday. When I visited, the cobblestone streets of the city were lined with vendors and food stalls, and musicians wandered about, entertaining the visitors gathered in the squares. Some of the cellars were open below the timber-lined houses of the upper town, and were filled with craftsmen selling their wares. Outside the city walls tents lined the ramparts, echoing bygone days when vendors would descend on the city to take advantage of the influx of merchants. I thoroughly enjoyed the entertainment on display throughout the city, with the music and flag throwers and storytellers. The attendees in costume added to the medieval flair, and the food was fantastic. Did I arrive in costume? I did not. Did I leave with a medieval costume starter kit? I might have... Would I attend again? If in the neighborhood, absolutely.

Provins has interesting medieval buildings to explore even when the fair is not in progress, such as the Tithe Barn, Ceasar's Tower, the Saint-Quiriace Church, and the Underground Galleries; these are all described well in other reviews. I can see how the town might warrant a three-star review during most of the year. However, the experience of seeing the town during its annual medieval fair weekend is enough for it to warrant a better review from me, and I'd highly recommend attending then if at all feasible.

Logistics: Provins is an easy train ride from Paris (Gare de l'Est), and is in fare zone 5 for the Paris Metro system. The lower town is a very short distance from the train station, and the upper town is only about 10-15 minutes uphill from the station.