First published: 29/11/15.

Jay T 2.5

Quseir Amra

Quseir Amra (Inscribed)

Quseir Amra by Jay T

It is unfortunate that Quseir Amra is generally the second stop on a Desert Castles tour from Amman, since it is a bit underwhelming compared to the superb Qasr al-Kharanah. I visited Quseir Amra in spring this year, and on first approach the castle seemed like it belonged on a Star Wars set. Inside, the ceilings and walls were covered with frescoes depicting daily life from the 8th century, and some of the frescoes were surprisingly libertine in contrast to today's culture. I particularly appreciated the dome of the caldarium, or hot bath, on which constellations of the night sky, including Ursa Major and Sagitarrius, had been painted. Quseir Amra was not as amazing as I thought it might be, but it was a worthwhile stop on the Desert Castles tour. I would note, as Chris mentioned in his blog post below, the extensive Syrian refugee camp I passed on the way back to Amman is a sobering reminder of the terrible trials facing this region; nevertheless, Jordan currently remains safe, and is an extremely hospitable, scenic, and memorable country to visit.

Logistics: Quseir Amra can be reached by rental car, hired driver, or guided tour from Amman; a Desert Castles tour generally includes Qasr al-Kharanah, Quseir Amra, and Qasr al-Azraq (a favorite of T.E. Lawrence)

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