Rapa Nui. Easter Island. The name evokes adventure, and it was my main reason for choosing Chile as my country to visit for Leap Day 2020. I lived in Hawaii for a few years, and had visited New Zealand about ten years ago, so I was looking forward to seeing the third corner of the Polynesian Triangle -- the region of the Pacific where ancient Polynesians took to rafts and settled, forming related cultures that slowly evolved over the centuries. I pictured Rapa Nui as a Pacific paradise, a chance to once again enjoy sunsets over the Pacific while admiring artifacts of an ancient culture. My arrival was somewhat different -- three days of storms gave me clouds and wind and rough waves, but I would not have traded the experience for anything!

The moai are the main reason anyone thinks of Easter Island, and the rows of large stoic heads placed on altars known as ahus were as impressive as I'd hoped. I took a tour the first day, and the guide explained the belief that the moai represented ancestral spirits who would protect villages, which is why most moai faced inland. The old villages themselves were interesting to see, particularly the chicken coops built inside rock walls. I was interested to learn that unlike other Polynesian ancestors, those who landed on Rapa Nui did not bring pigs. What I didn't realize before arrival was that all of the moai standing upright on the island have been reconstructed, since all moai on the island were toppled over during infighting between villages in the 18th and 19th centuries. The coral eyes and headgear of the moai were also knocked off during this time, although one full reconstruction can be seen near the town of Hanga Roa. The moai are treated with great respect, which is why a local resident faced legal charges after his car accidentally ran into an ahu and knocked one over shortly before I arrived.

The other reviews have mentioned the highlights of the island. For me, the quarry at Rano Raraku was the most fascinating place I saw during my three days. Here you can see how the moai were carved out of the rock, and see where many moai were abandoned on the hillsides, not having made it to ahus near the coast. The only significant area I was not able to visit because of a weather closure was Orongo, where the Birdman cult took hold; I will have to return one day to see it. I did enjoy seeing the Birdman paintings in a cave near the sea at the bottom of the mountain below Orongo.

Rapa Nui is absolutely worth the visit. I was heartily amused to find a Polynesian culture using the Spanish language, since I so rarely had the opportunity to use Spanish in Hawaii. The town of Hanga Roa is very walkable, and I enjoyed the food and markets there. Although the weather was not great, my house on the beach also afforded great views of the angry Pacific. Like others mentioned below, I attended a cultural dinner and show, which was in many ways similar to others I have seen in Hawaii and New Zealand. I would love to return.

Logistics: There are regular daily flights between Santiago and Rapa Nui. Please note that as of 2020, all visitors must have secured lodging and a return trip prior to flights to Rapa Nui. In addition, visitors must fill out forms at https://ingresorapanui.interior.gob.cl/# in order to get an entry invitation that must be shown to the airline when checking in at the airport in Santiago. There are regular guided tours of Rapa Nui from the main town of Hanga Roa, although both cars and bicycles may be rented in town to tour the island. An entry pass to Rapa Nui National Park must also be purchased.