The Historic Centre of Zacatecas was a delight, and the highlight of my November trip through central Mexico. Zacatecas takes a bit of planning to reach, but it was well worth the six hour detour from the cluster of World Heritage Sites near Querétaro.

Silver mines put Zacatecas on the map, and funded the rich Baroque architecture seen in the stunning cathedral, as well the Temple of Santo Domingo and the Governor's Palace in the Plaza de Armas. Early in its history, the mines also brought missionaries traveling along the Camino Real, such as the Franciscans, who founded the former San Francisco convent (site of one of two World Heritage Site plaques I found in the historic center), and the Augustinians, who founded the Temple of San Agustin. On my one day in Zacatecas, I spent a couple early hours visiting the churches that were open and admiring the architecture, and then strolling the relatively quiet streets (likely because it was Revolution Day, one of Mexico's public holidays). The neo-classical facade of the Calderon theater was beautiful, and the small plazas scattered around the city were a peaceful way to start the day.

I had two sites I definitely wanted to see when I was in Zacatecas. The first was the overlook from La Bufa, the imposing bluff overlooking the city. La Bufa played a significant role in 1914 during the Mexican Revolution, as Pancho Villa successfully wrested the hill from federal troops before taking the city of Zacatecas, and from there marching on to Mexico City. On top of the hill are statues of the revolutionaries, a museum with a good exhibition on the Battle of Zacatecas, and panoramic observation points; I particuarly liked the view past the colonnade next to the central plaza. To reach the summit of La Bufa, I took the Teleférico, an aerial tramway whose cable cars are hard to miss as they transit over the city center.

After I returned from La Bufa via the Teleférico, I exited the station and walked to the nearby entrance of El Eden mine, the other site I was not going to miss in town. El Eden mine was operational for almost four hundred years, from 1586 through 1960, and brought tremendous wealth to the Spanish empire and later to Mexico. The mine offers guided tours from both of its entrances; from the entrance near the Teleferico, the tour starts in an old mine shaft before descending by elevators to the main levels where the tour is conducted. The tour was in Spanish, and gave a very good overview of the significance of the mine and the hard life of the miners, as well as some traditions and superstitions. The tour ends at a mineral museum, from which tour members can take a mine train out of the mine to the lower entrance, located past the hospital at the end of the Alameda Trinidad Garcia de la Cadena park. Tours starting at the lower entrance end by the elevators that take passengers back up to the Teleférico entrance, which can be a convenient way for travelers to avoid the hike uphill to the Teleférico.

The rest of the afternoon I spent exploring the city and finding interesting niches like the Fountain of the Conquistadors and the plaza by the former San Francisco convent. Zacatecas was home to two Mexican artists and brothers, Pedro and Rafael Coronel (the latter was also the son-in-law of Diego Rivera). Both have museums in the city, which I would love to visit at a latter date when I have more time (and when they are open). The Pedro Coronel museum is located near the Temple of Santo Domingo, while the Rafael Coronel museum is located in the former San Francicso convent, and has a well-regarded mask collection.

Taking Solivagant's advice, I walked back through town toward the Sierra de Alica Park to see the Zacatecas Aqueduct and to eat dinner at the restaurant in the Quinta Real hotel, which was built in a former bullring. The food was fantastic, but the sunset and early evening view over the central plaza with the aqueduct in the background was even better. To cap off the day, I walked back to the historic center, where Revolution Day festivities were well under way. I passed a marching band and parade on the main street through town before watching live theater in the plaza below the 19th century González Ortega Market. Vendors were selling snacks and souvenirs everywhere, and the Governor's Palace in the Plaza de Armas was lit up for the festivities; the family atmosphere made for a memorable way to end my day. Zacatecas may not be on most visitor's itineraries when touring Mexico, but I found it a fascinating city with a rich history, well-deserving of World Heritage status.

Incidentally, as a bit of trivia, Zacatecas is home to one of UNESCO's Category 2 World Heritage centers, focusing on heritage in Latin America and the Caribbean.

Logistics: The Historic Center of Zacatecas is very easily navigated on foot, though there are some hills, and the city is at a high altitude. The city can also be reached by bus, by plane, or by private transport.