Visiting the five coastal villages was very easy using the frequent train services. Too easy, for although the villages were colourful and picturesque, they were also overcrowded with tourists and the accompanying fast food and souvenir stalls.

So when I went by bus P from La Spezia to Portovenere I was areeably surprised to find an equally colourful village, but without the crowds.

I walked through the narrow street in the centre of the village to see St Peter's church and Byron Bay, then returned along the waterfront.

After a sumptuous seafood lunch I took a cruise to see the three islands with their exposed cliffs and abandoned monasteries.