First published: 05/10/16.

Juha Sjoeblom 2.5

Kasbah Of Algiers

Kasbah of Algiers (Inscribed)

Kasbah of Algiers by Juha Sjoeblom

Site visited January 2014. I’ve always been intrigued by the Kasbah of Algiers so I looked forward to visit it. I wanted to see if it lives up to its mysterious and sinister image.

The Kasbah is obviously very easy to visit when you are in Algiers. But is it that simple? Every travel guide I had read warned that the Kasbah is very dangerous place and can’t be visited on one’s own without a local guide or other protection.

In Algiers I asked the hotel receptionist what would be the best and safe way to visit the Kasbah. He said ”just go there - what is the problem”. He didn't understand why I asked about the safety. Next I tried to find a tourist info in order to get a guide. After a long searching someone on the street showed me the way to some kind of a tourist info yet it didn't look like one. I went to the desk and asked for a guide. Woman at the desk introduced me some ordinary looking old man with a shopping bag. She asked the man to walk with me in the Kasbah.

This nice old man said that he is born and raised in the Kasbah. I walked with him around the Kasbah about two hours. He showed me the house where he has born and we went to greet his brother and friends. The man also invited me to a cafe for a cup of tea where we joined a group of other old men. I had a really nice time chatting with these men while sipping my tea. I asked them about the dangerous reputation of the Kasbah. They totally disagreed and said that crime and violence is against all their principles. They were really curious about me and wanted to know what made me come to their country. At least these friendly old men were nothing but welcoming towards visitors. In the end of our walk I thanked the man and offered him some money. He refused because, as he told, he is not a guide.

Later that day, after having visited Notre Dame d'Afrique, I walked back to top of the hill to the High Kasbah because I wanted to explore it on my own. From the street I popped in to some alleys. Narrow and steep alleys with red colored buildings are different than the wider alleyways and white buildings of the Lower Kasbah. I was very careful although it was very quiet and I didn't see almost any people at all. After a short walk and photographing I headed back to seafront via the southern end of the Kasbah.

To sum up, particularly the Lower Kasbah is quite safe to walk around on your own. It was very crowded and looked like any other medina or shopping area. It is also spacious and there are lots of palaces, shops and cafes. Maybe some parts are not that safe but I didn't have that feeling. The quiet and labyrinthine alleys of the residential area of the High Kasbah could be hazardous for westerners and tourists. I’d recommend to get a guide at least for that area.

As mentioned in the earlier reviews, the Kasbah is in a very poor condition. One can see collapsed buildings and piles of trash everywhere. I hope they preserve some buildings and areas before it is too late. At least the citadel with Palais du Dey needs restoration and opening to the public. Preservation of the whole area would need emptying it which is quite unrealistic. It seems that the Kasbah is beyond the control of police and government which makes preservation projects almost impossible. It is possible that we lose this site before our eyes. I guess some areas could be saved but it would need immediate actions.

The Kasbah of Algiers is different than other similar sites like medinas in Morocco and Tunisia. As Algeria lacks tourism the Kasbah is really authentic and lively place. It is raw, threatening and still ordinary. Visiting it is a thrilling experience you’ll remember, for better or for worse.

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