I visited this site November 2007. The whole island is beautiful, rising steeply out of the sea, and they are very proud of the site - all major sights within it have clear signs with information about what you will see. We visited several different areas, walking through rainforest to see the Emerald Pool, then moving to a much higher altitude to see the Freshwater lake. The greenery there was quite different - you could almost feel you were walking around a lake in the Alps. There are clear reminders of the volcanic nature of the park (I think I read that Dominica has one of the highest concentration of volcanoes in the world) - in many places steaming water comes out of the ground and stains the rocks red and yellow.

And, to make things even better, we had most of these places to ourselves - mass tourism has NOT reached Dominica.