I dedicated 3 days to exploring the Area de Conservación Guanacaste in March 2024. Every day we made sure to arrive at the park gate when it opened at 8am (pay attention to which parks are open each day). Our logic was - do the hike in the morning (avoid peak temperatures), higher potential of spotting wildlife, and to finish in time for a late lunch. In the end, we felt we succeeded as we arrived to all parks between 8:00 and 8:30 in the morning, the heat was not uncomfortable, and we did indeed spot plenty of wildlife. Access to each park was reserved in advance online, with the exception of the Junquillal Sector.

Day 1: Monday - Santa María Sector

Day 2: Tuesday - Pailas Sector

Day 3: Wednesday - Santa Rosa Sector & Junquillal Sector

In our Toyota Cross SUV rental, every drive was fine. However, I will note the road to the Santa María Sector is the most difficult. Unfortunately, once you're a few kilometers outside of Liberia you pass by a dumpsite for the city that is an unpleasant reminder of the challenges of Waste Management in the country and the effects of mass tourism. The last few kilometers to Santa María Sector are particularly bumpy and should not be attempted in a sedan car. Not long before the gate entrance we spotted a red Coati, our first mammal!

Santa María Sector is wonderfully remote and off-the-beaten path compared to its more popular neighbor in Rincón de la Vieja Volcano National Park. During our hike we saw plenty of the large Blue Morpho Butterflies (though difficult to photograph - hence wikipedia). Fortunately, we came across some Crested Guans on the short side trail to a waterfall. The major highlight for visitors to this sector is the natural Río Negro Hot Springs at the end (not to be confused with the 'other' hot springs managed by Hacienda Guachipelin further down the river). The site was a pleasant destination to explore before turning back around. In the past it was fairly normal for hikers to bath in the hot springs, but this is now prohibited. Touching the water, it is fairly warm and while certainly an experience, it did not feel like it would actually be refreshing when you are already hot! On the way back we came across a Bocaracá Eyelash Viper that was in the middle of digesting its prey. We really took our time here and we completed our excursion just before noon, spending nearly 4 hours at the park.

The Pailas Sector of Rincón de la Vieja Volcano National Park is more popular and easier to access, yet most visitors only visit the 3.4km loop trail. Just before arriving to the National Park there is a private property/hotel called Hacienda Guachipelin (previously mentioned) which charges a right of way access of 800 Colones (not part of the park entrance fee). We decided to complete the Loop trail first as its more exposed to sun and can be busy, but on a weekday between 8am and 9:30am it was fairly quiet. The loop is a blend of tropical forest and exposed areas that includes volcanic activity. Note that its possible to hike to the Santa María Sector from this Loop trail. 

By 10am we had begun our longer (less-frequented) hike to La Cangreja Waterfall. Perhaps 45 minutes in, we came across a group of a dozen or so Howler Monkeys high up in the forest canopy. We stayed for 10-15 minutes watching their behavior and seeing how they used their powerful tails. Since this hike goes up and down quiet often, its far more tiring than the slightly shorter hike in the Santa María Sector. Continuing on to a fully exposed part of the hike, views of the mountain range are revealed. During this hike we saw few fellow hikers, but upon arrival to the waterfall there were plenty of people enjoying the cooler temperatures. While swimmers/bathers are generally prohibited from entry, the temptation was impossible for some to resist. About an hour into the return journey we came across a group of at least twenty White-faced Capuchins. Picking and eating fruit, they were a lively group and they were in close proximity to us compared to the Howlers (perhaps 5-10 meters). We could easily see a baby held in its mothers arms and we simply observed them eating and discarding red fruit.

On the final day, from Liberia we headed North on National Route 1 (North InterAmerican Road). As you dissect the Area de Conservación Guanacaste, the road increasingly becomes more scenic. This route into the Santa Rosa Sector is almost entirely paved and the entry road is well-maintained (accessible to all vehicles). As we parked adjacent to the Hacienda Santa Rosa Casona, the park rangers and us (the only visitors yet in the park) noticed a Gray Fox which had appeared and was crossing part of the historic site grounds. We decided to hike the Sendero Indio Desnudo trail before visiting the restored historic house. Within 10 minutes we were glimpsing (but mostly hearing) another group of Crested Guans. A few minutes later we came across a surprisingly quick Armadillo, but it was out of site rather quickly. After finishing the short trail, the Hacienda Santa Rosa Casona took about 20-30 minutes to explore. We spent only 1.5 hours at Santa Rosa Sector in total. Of all Sectors we visited we saw more Iguanas here than anywhere else, they are numerous and large. For those more adventurous than us and if your vehicle rental is 4x4 high clearance, you can consider driving a long rutted dirt road to eventually reach Playa Naranjo.

Bahia Junquillal National Wildlife Refuge is one of the only Sectors that is not contiguous with other parts of the Conservation Area. Playa Junquillal is easily accessible and we picniced here. I hoped also to see a few Crocodiles. I brought my binoculars and I enjoyed using them to watch the Pelicans dive at high speed into the bay to catch fish. I also saw plenty of birds here including a shy Whimbrel. Technically there are 3 'trails' in the wildlife refuge, yet only one would be considered an actual trail (albeit a short one). The other two are just walks to the Northern and Southern part of the bay, along the beach. Yet, both do have highlights besides a beautiful, clean beach. The Southern axis leads to a muddy river with mangroves that is one of the areas you might spot Crocodiles. The Northern axis leads to a lagoon. I noticed plenty of crabs here, but no sign of Crocodiles. We spent about 4 hours here and it never felt too busy, the beach is excellent, and the refuge is operated by park rangers. Just before leaving the refuge we spotted another Red Coati, our last mammal!

• Santa María Sector, Rincón de la Vieja Volcano National Park
  • Río Negro Hot Springs Trail (9.5km) 3.5 hours

• Pailas Sector, Rincón de la Vieja Volcano National Park
  
  • Sendero Las Pailas Loop (3.4km) 1.5 hours
  • La Cangreja Waterfall (10km) 4.5 hours *300m plus elevation gain

• Santa Rosa Sector, Santa Rosa National Park
  • Hacienda Santa Rosa Casona
  • Sendero Indio Desnudo (Naked Indian Trail - 1.5 km)

• Junquillal Sector, Bahia Junquillal National Wildlife Refuge
  
  • La Laguna 'Trail' (North Axis Walk - Laguna Palo Seco, 800m)
  • Estero Seco 'Trail' (South Axis Walk, 800m) *crocodile warning sign