
In the dwindling chance Dubai Creek is inscribed, I will seek to plot out the best use of your time over 2 days. After visiting "Khor Dubai" I have to say, it certainly can be an enjoyable place to visit. Though for a World Heritage Traveller, I suspect the UAE's recent update to their tentative list might take up more of your time.
Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood
This is the best neighborhood to walk around the narrow streets and stop for food or coffee at XVA Gallery or at the Arabian Tea House Restaurant & Cafe. Al Fahidi is the best preserved district in or around Dubai Creek that was mostly saved from complete demolition. I suppose if you want to see the difference between what is new and what is mostly old (late 19th, early 20th century), the OLD Al Fahidi district sits adjacent to the NEW Al Seef Promenade. Since Al Seef was completed in 2017 and has by some been labelled a "historical fraud" you can easily compare the historical district with its nearby imitation. The buildings in Al Seef are deliberately aged and the old wind towers tend to be taller and larger than the ones in the Al Fahidi district. I will not trash this 2017 development, because I would then be a hypocrite for having stayed in a hotel there (which was quiet comfortable and affordable). However, I will simply say Al Seef will hold little interest to most of our community other than its close proximity to the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood. What if Dubai had built some massive buildings along this part of the creek? I suppose the Al Seef development has prevented such an outcome.
Al Shindagha
Start at the Visitor Centre – Al Shindagha Museum and visit some of the excellent exhibits/pavilions by using this brochure map. There are 22 pavilions that act as an open-air museum. As Els stated in her 2018 review, "It turns out that a completely reconstructed 'new' old neighbourhood is being built on the banks of Dubai Creek." I can now conclusively say the work is finished. The museum is stunning and worth your time, its curated in a style that addresses what could be the OUV of Khor Dubai. Yet, from the perspective of a world heritage traveller there are few actual sites to see in Al Shindagha. It also did not impress ICOMOS enough in 2017.
"The reconstructed neighbourhood of Shindagha, only hesitantly reinstalls functions which relate to trade and commerce, and is unable to illustrate continuous commercial and cultural exchanges."
I visited 4 of the 22 pavilions in depth, while others I visited only briefly or exteriors while walking well into the evening. Each pavillion is superbly curated and organized, but to see most or all of them you would need pretty much the whole day! Better to pick 3-5 pavilions and be satisfied.
#1 Visitor Centre (glass building)
#2 Dubai Creek - Birth of City
#4 Traditional Crafts
#22 Culture of the Sea Pavillion
Al Ras (via Marine Transport Station - 4 dirham)
Besides the Souk, which has more to offer than its more touristy counterpart on the other side of the creek, my highlight in Al Ras was the Museum of the Poet Al Oqaili. This museum located in a historical building actually feels old and offers insight into the poet's life and works. The home was built in 1923, so its a century old and has two floors [pictured]. The staff here was so welcoming and happy to have us. It is a wonderful little gem of a house museum, which includes full translations.
Based on the most recent iteration of "Khor Dubai" as a candidate for world heritage, this concludes my summary of each area and its highlights. Would an inscription for Dubai Creek further degrade the world heritage label? I suspect not, but nor would it add much. World Heritage or not, I found myself enjoying all 3 areas around Dubai Creek more than modern Dubai.
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