As previous reviewers have written: As a non-diver, it is difficult to visit and appreciate this WHS. If you are a snorkeller and want to visit the core zone, you can either stay in San Pedro or Caye Caulker and book a long and expensive tour that is more geared towards divers. Or you book a stay in an expensive resort on one of the more remote islands.

What to do? After some research I decided to stay on Tobacco Caye. Tobacco Caye is a small island (and small really means small, the island is the size of two soccer fields) that lies within the South Water Caye Marine Reserve and thus the WHS. The island is permanently inhabited and has several basic accommodations. Most importantly, Tobacco Caye is right on the barrier reef and you can snorkel from shore.

I was there for three nights. Other tourists stayed for weeks. The island itself is not a resort or a paradise: Garbage is an issue, and generators disturb the idyll. Nevertheless, I enjoyed my stay. The snorkelling is very good as the reef seems healthy. There are night snorkelling tours offered (recommended) and if enough tourists get together, you can also rent a boat for a tour to the neighbouring islands.

Boats for Tobacco Caye leave in the morning from Dangriga (the ride takes about 30 minutes). It is best to organize your place on a boat through your accommodation. I can't recommend Dangriga itself and would avoid an overnight stop there if possible.

If you want to have some relaxation besides ticking off the WHS and need a budget-friendly alternative to expensive resorts, Tobacco Caye might be a good destination for you.