
This is one of my favorite WHS in Italy. The reign of Norman kings and their heirs, Hohenstaufen such as Frederick II, is the heyday era of Sicilly and antient Calabria and Apulia from 11th to 13th century, and one can see its testimony even nowadays. The great examples are the romanesque cathedrals and castles in Apulia (TWHS + WHS), and Arab-Norman monuments in Palermo, Monreale and Cefalu (WHS). While the Apulian cathedrals show strong Norman, Lombard, and Tuscany impact with a touch of Byzantine style, the Sicilian treasures are incredible blends of Norman, Byzantine and Arab styles.
There are around 22 Arab-Norman monuments in/around Palermo that survived from midle ages. Only 9 of them have been selected as WHS, and I must admit that it is a well-balanced selection. All sites can be quite easily visited in two-three days: The sites in Palermo are in walking distance, although Admiral`s Bridge and Zisa Palace are located a little bit off the historic center. Monreale and Cefalu are accessible by public transport, Monreale by AMAT bus 389 from Piazza Indipendenza and Cefalu by train.
(1) Royal Palace and Palatine Chapel: I visited this site on Thursday, so, I could see only Palatine Chapel in the second floor of the Palace. The third floor with the Room of King Roger and the Wind Tower is open for public only from Friday to Sunday because of sessions of the local parliament. Even though the Palatine Chapel is a unique blend of western style (romanesque three-naves and large apsida with the mosiac of the Christ in it), orthodox style (dome with the mosaic of the Christ, and mosaics by themselfs, while there are executed not only in transcendental eastern style but also in descriptive western style in part), and Arab culture (beautiful wooden ceiling of the main nave), I was a bit disappointed that the Chapel is a tourist trap, and I felt there as in a museum and not in a sacred space.
During my visit of an opera perfomance in Teatro Massimo in Palermo city center (the largest theatre in Italy), I could admire the monumental curtain with painting from 19th century. It depicts the scene of Roger II leaving the Royal Palace towards coronation in the cathedral, where there is an artistic view on the medieval Royal Palace and surroundings.
(2) Zisa Palace is the best preserved "summer" palace of Norman kings, and I was surprised by the charm of this site. The Arab appearance of the Hall of the Fountain was really fascinating to me. Well, it is "only" a museum that runs in typical Italian way (too many staff members with no actual reason, they are sometimes arrogant and rude, etc.), but it emanated special atmosphere to me.
If you walk from the Royal Palace through Porta Nuova following Corso Calatafimi, there are two other sites that were parts of the Garden of Paradise, as well as Zisa Palace: (i) La Cuba and (ii) La Cubula, but they were not included to WHS. (i) The Cuba Palace (15 min walking from Porta Nuova on the left side) is somehow similar to Zisa. It is smaller and partly destroyed but more compact Norman building with Arab decorations inside. Admission is 2 EUR but still worth-visiting. (ii) In the Cubula garden (30 min walking from Porta Nuova on the right side), there are the ruins of Villa Napoli with several Norman-Arab details and marvelous pavilon with typical Palermitan red dome. Both buildings are located in the garden with citrus and palm trees surrounded by fence and only one entrance gate (for free, but not always opened). Though the area is a bit decadent, La Cubula pavilon is in very good condition though. I enjoyed my visit a lot.
(3) Palermo Cathedral is extremely monumental and beautiful from outside, and I really liked my visit even though the classicist interior is a bit boring (with an odd baroque "stain" on a ceiling in the chancel. However, I liked the chapel of S Rosario heavilly decorated by silver, the tombs of Rogger II and Frederick II, and other artistic objects inside.
(4) Monreale Cathedral contains vast Byzantine-like mosaics, marble decorations, two bronze doors, all of very strong visual impact. But I was a bit disappointed, because quantity beats quaility in this case, and I must say that I was disappointed again when walking uphill from bus stop towards the cathedral - the building is surprisingly not such monumental as for example Cefalu cathedral.
(5) Cefalu Cathedral is my favorite site from this WHS (photo of the cathedral from the Rocca). I visited Cefalu three times already. The setting, architecture, decoration had a strong spiritual impact to me. The mosaic is only in the apsida, but it is extraordinal, made by true Greek masters. The Cathedral was founded by Roger II. The building combines anglo-franco-Norman romanesque style with Byzantine decoration and mosaics, and Arab influences. The tomb of Roger II used to stand in the transept, but it was moved to Palermo cathedral by Frederick II. The eastern and western parts clearly show different styles that is very impresive, and it is seen almost everywhere in this building that ambitious programs have never been finished. This feature is maybe the most appealing and special... The modern abstract glass windows are also of interest and fit perfectly to this unique structure.
(6) S Giovanni degli Eremiti: Nice place with typical red domes, but I felt there as in a museum again.
(7) Martorama (S Maria dell`Ammiraglio) was very authentic and extraordinar place to me. The ancient core is a true Byzantine structure with beautiful mosaics of high standard elaborated in transcendent style. I liked very much two panels from former nartex, now surrounded by barocco decoration close to the entrance - Virgin Mary with kneeling George the Antioch on the left side, and the coronation of Roger II by the Christ that is very very Byzantine.
(8) S Cataldo is very close to Martorama, it is quite small but pretty interesting.
(9) Admiral`s Bridge is interesting place, not far from the main railway station, and it is a valuable addition to this WHS.
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