First published: 18/07/19.

Matejicek 3.5

Avignon

Avignon (Inscribed)

Avignon by Matejicek

Avignon is quite touristy site but there is a good reason for that. Provence region is simply beautiful and Palais des Papes together with Pont d`Avignon is must-see for every tourist in the region. It has a serious drawback that Avignon has turned into a tourist trap in part. Fortunatelly, there is still relativelly tranquil places in historical parts of Avignon that embraces the inscribed core. I enjoyed also a boat trip on Rhone river.

The small core zone includes the monuments on the Rock of Doms and the adjacent torso of the bridge. All the monuments are built in two major styles - Romanesque and Gothic. As emphasized also by others, especially the Palais des Papes is an empty shell. But I enjoyed my visit despite this fact. I took it as a textbook of architecture, admired vault systems (PHOTO) and all the decorations in stone, and ignored instalations, objects and crowds inside. However, I found the huge metalic construction inside the main court of the Palace used as a podium for occassional concerts very very disturbing. The combined ticket for the Palace and the Bridge is for as much as 14.5 EUR that is quite a lot for empty rooms and for what remained from the bridge. The price includes also 3D-virtual guide, being an old school boy I refused this option. In case of Petit Palais, the entry is for free to the museum and there is a permanent exhibition of Italian art. I was surprised that hords of tourists visiting the Palace left the museum unnoticed...

(1-2) Palais des Papes + Petit Palais: The main palace is a huge fortress-like Gothic monument built in few decades during 14th century. The vault system and window decorations represent mature high Gothic style (mostly four-part rib vault, but also six-part rib vault, pointed barrel vault, conical dome in former kitchen, or simple wooden beamed ceiling) with example of late Gothic "mannerism" with non-intersecting ribs. Besides the vaults and almost endless Gothic interior, I also enjoyed stone details such as fireplaces and fragments of high Gothic portal with a statue of Virin Mary in the main palace. I also liked monumental staircase in the main palace and cylindric staircase of the small palace. I was quite familiar with Gothic style of the palaces, because it was built in let`s say international style, which can be found also in Prague in buildings of the Emperor Charles IV. As concerns the inner decorations, there are only few frescoes in former chapells executed in Italian style. The vast fresques in the private rooms of the Pope are exceptional and remined me those in Karlstejn Castle near Prague.

(3) In contrast to the palaces, Notre Dame-des-Domes cathedral was built Romanesque style (with later Gothic and Baroque additions) that is quite typical for Southern France and can be found also in Arles and other churches in the area: The vault of main nave is very similar to S Trophime, but it is completed with wonderful dome. However, I can admit that the most special feature of the cathedral is the huge golden statue of Virgin Mary on the top of the tower.

(4) I was surprised how narrow the bridge is. Thus, I would find the idea to dance on the bridge rather risky! The chapel of S Benezet has two storeys and it is built in the Romanesque style typical in the area. Though interesting the bridge is not unique. It was originaly directly connected to town walls and Petit Palace, but now it is somehow divided by road.

To conclude: even though the styles of all the incribed components are not unique and can be found also in other parts of France and Europe (Italy or Central Europe), the ensemble of high Gothic Palais des Papes and Petit Palais combined with Romanesque cathedral and bridge is huge and extraordinary.

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