This is the Czech classic, thus, it is normally stuffed with masses of tourists, and not only tourists form abroad but also the local tourists, usually during popular canoeing on the Vltava River. Despite its rather remote location close to the border forests with Austria and Germany, there are regular bus connections from Prague and local trains from regional center České Budějovice. I have been there many times already, but my list visit in May 2020 was exceptional because of the covid quarantine…
It was clearly visible how disastrous it is for touristy museum-towns, if tourists do not come. Obviously, I was not only person, who had an idea to explore the empty town of Český Krumlov, and I could spot numerous travelers from Prague strolling by the river and enjoying a sunny day. But we could not save the tourist industry, because the castle, all the hotels and pensions were shut, and the Czech tourists were attracted by few opened garden restaurants to have a beer and lunch, and not by souvenir shops and stylish restaurants (obviously shut down anyway).
Český Krumlov is exceptionally preserved because of the favorable circumstances. It was the residence town of powerful nobility from Middle Ages that prevented the area from political and economical disturbances that were quite common in other parts of Bohemia and Moravia. Thus, we can find there the historical town with square, old houses and gothic parish church of St. Vitus, the giant complex of castle built in gothic, renaissance, and baroque styles completed by the baroque garden, and also perfectly preserved suburbs around the core, which have been usually destroyed in other Czech towns.
My advice to enjoy Český Krumlov is just walking along the river, through the winding streets of town, and climb uphill to the castle enjoying beautiful views. For me, it was never necessity entering the interiors of castle. Actually, I have never been inside. As concerns the interiors, what I like is the gothic space of St. Vitus church, which has been declared as the Czech national monument, but the tourists usually overlook it. (PHOTO: a view towards the church with the silhouette of the castle on the left).
We will see in the near future, if Český Krumlov transforms from rather cheap museum town to something different. Anyway, the castle area is simply beautiful and exceptionally authentic. It is not true for some modern reconstructions of old houses in the town center, but it is still bearable, and it makes together unique atmosphere of this old central-European town.