In November 2019, I spent two weeks in Okinawa Main Island. Thus, I had an opportunity to explore most of the interesting sites that Okinawa offers (1 WHS, 1 TWHS and much more…). It was my second visit to the island (first visit in March 2016). By coincidence, I arrive to Okinawa just few days after the disastrous fire of Shuri Castle that I fortunately managed to visit 3 years ago.

WHS consists of 9 components in total: 5 castles, 1 mausoleum, 1 garden villa, and 2 sacred places (Utaki) from which only one remains intact as the cultural landscape while only the stone gate survived from the other. Selected sites, monuments and landscapes complement each other and express the unique Ryukyuan heritage that is still living in part: Utaki places are still used by locals and I could see a shock of Okinawa people after the fire of Shuri castle, which is a true symbol of Okinawa culture.

This year I visited 6 components (Shuri and Nakijin castles, Tamaudun royal mausoleum, Shikinaen garden villa, Sefa-Utaki cultural landscape and Sonohyan-Utaki gate) thus I now fully understand OUV of this WHS. I have not visited 3 more castles (better said what remained from them) but I think it would not bring anything new to me as Nakijin and Shuri are considered as the best examples. Though it is probably not a world-class, it is certainly unique and I really enjoyed my visit.

I used only public transport or walking to visit the places. The easiest accessible are 4 components located directly in Naha city. I reached 3 components in Shuri district by monorail, which is an attraction by itself. However, Shikinaen is slightly off the monorail stations, but still accessible by ca. 30 min walk from Shuri district. Nakijin castle, which is located some 100 km from Naha northbound, is easily accessible by relatively frequent 65/66 bus lines from Nago bus terminal (from Naha by bus express). Sefa-Utaki landscape is located some 10 km from Shuri to the East, and it is accessible by rather infrequent bus line 38/338 from Naha bus terminal.

(1) Shuri castle

It is the most representative monument of this WHS (even after the fire) as it was the main castle of the Ryukyu kings. Unfortunately, the wooden palace with the state hall (Seiden) was destroyed by fire. I visited the place just 2 days after the disaster, and I could spot numerous strongly moved locals that spontaneously assembled around closed gates of he castle guarded by police. The outer walls and gates remained fortunately intact, but the actual result of disaster was barely visible from distance. It was possible to see only one of main buildings with partly collapsed roof. I had opportunity to visit the castle interior 3 years ago. While the red painted palace buildings and their decoration were monumental, I found it as rather sterile museum. Even though it was a reconstruction after WWII damages, it is great lost for Okinawa, and I hope it will be reconstructed as soon as possible.

(2) Sonohyan-utaki gate

It is located just in front of the west gate of Shuri castle, and it was not affected by the fire at all. It is rather small gate made from coral limestone and sandstone in unique Okinawa style, and it has its charm. The sacred forest behind the gate almost diminished because of need of land for nearby school buildings in post-war times.

(3) Tamaudun royal mausoleum.

It is located few hundred meters from Shuri castle in direction West, and it is also made from gray coral limestone blocks. The interior of tombs is not accessible, but even from outside the mausoleum is unique and monumental structure.

(4) Shikinaen royal gardens.

It is very beautiful place worth to visit. Be aware that it is closed on Wednesday! Even if it is relatively small garden with wooden villa and pond with two bridges and hexagonal pavilion, I spent there maybe 1 or 2 hours.

(5) Sefa-Utaki cultural landscape.

I was quite curious how this cultural landscape looks like before my trip by bus 338 from Naha bus terminal (around 40 minutes). The photos of the site were not very helpful and informative to me, and the site was not reviewed by the members of our community till now. I expected tranquil place with almost no tourists there, but I was surprised how touristy this site was. However, it was visited mostly by locals and tourists from East Asia. The site is actually a forested hill with bizarre rock formations, sitting nearby Cape Chinen on the eastern Pacific coast of Okinawa. It was cloudy and quite windy that day, so I planned to visit only the site not going down to the beach. There is a visitor center with parking lot and shops directly on the main road close to the bus stop, and it is expected to buy ticket (pleasingly low price 300 JPY) to the site in the visitor center that I did not. Fortunately, it was OK and I could pay the fee at the entrance gate located around 1 km uphill from the visitor center. The side-road going to the entrance reminded me an Asian version of road going to Karlstejn castle in Czechia, since it was full of restaurants and shops with souvenirs and local products, but it was still OK. After entering the site, the visitors watch the short video (in Japanese but with English subtitles) about importance and sacral function of Sefa-Utaki. A curiosity for me was the instructions what not to do there: wearing high heels and taking selfies with praying locals not recommended! From the entrance gate, stone-paved way passed by little pond and went directly to the forested area with 4 main sacred places of particular functions, and even the pavement itself connecting the places had its sacral meaning. Sefa-Utaki was directly connected with royal family, and the places had their virtual counterparts in the Shuri castle. In fact, Sefa-Utaki is not far from Shuri, and I could spot the forested hill of Sefa-Utaki from the ramparts on the eastern side of Shuri castle. Interesting enough, Sefa-Utaki was accessible only for females in ancient times. At the beginning of the pavement there is a view towards the small island in Pacific, which was believed that gods descent from Heaven there. Sefa-Utaki cultural landscape is formed by bizarre coral limestone rocks covered by lush subtropical vegetation. As there were quite numerous Asian tourists with me, I had a little chance to enjoy the sacred places alone, but it was still bearable. The first two places were altars with sacred bricks laying on the stone platforms below the limestone rocks covered by ferns and tree roots. The following place is probably the most famous and the most impressive one: it consists of huge stone blocks with triangular passageway between them. On one site, there is a large place with the altar by the rock with two vessels for collecting sacred water dripping from two stalagmites above them (PHOTO). On the other side of the passageway there is a place with sacred bricks and sacred staircase virtually leading towards the sacred island in Pacific. The last place is located a bit apart, and it is accessible by rather steep pavement going down to the spring close to the coastline. Several salamanders inhabit the crystal clear spring. This place is unfortunately partly affected by military destructions and object from WWII. To conclude, Sefa-Uaki is very interesting place worth to short trip from Naha. In Europe we do not have many places where sacral function so deeply connected with nature and the landscape as I found it in Sefa-Utaki.

(6) Nakijin castle.

The castle ruin of Nakijin is located in northern parts of Okinawa Island, and it belongs to biggest tourist attractions in the area and there is a good reason for that as already described by other reviewers. I was accommodated very close to the Churaumi Aquarium (worth visiting as well). So, I walked to Bise village (another interesting place) and continued walking along the wonderful northern coastline of Motobu peninsula with beautiful beaches and coral formations in direction East. After that, I approached the main road, went few stops by bus 65/66 and enjoyed beautiful Nakijin castle for the second time (March 2016 and November 2019). Unfortunately, I missed cherry tree blossoming both times, maybe next visit…