
Mosaics of Ravenna are the world-class WHS, and everything important about inscribed monuments has been already covered by other reviewers. Thus, I decided to describe other important but un-inscribed sites in Ravenna. I believe that it is helpful to understand the importance of Ravenna in context. Not to be misunderstood, the list of the inscribed sites is complete in my opinion, and important but un-inscribed monuments were heavily altered in midle ages and modern times, thus they have lost some of their qualities (mostly mosaics...)
It happened to me during my visit in May 2018: We walked with my friends from the parking lot (for free on Sunday) close to railway station towards Piazza del Popolo. We passed by an antient church, and my friend told: Nice church, let`s go inside! As a WHS enthusiast, I refused this idea, because that church is NOT inscribed and probably contains NO mosaics inside running towards S Vitale... Now, after spending a couple of days in Ravenna, I am better informed and know that that church was S Giovanni Evangelista founded by Galla Placidia... PHOTO
(i) S Giovanni Evangelista is one of the oldes churches in Ravenna founded by Galla Placidia close to the port. It partly retains classical shape of Ravenna`s basilica: 3 naves with classical columns, apsida and atrium. Nowadays shape is the result of after-war reconstructions due to the bombing because of a fatal location close to the railway station. The original apsida was round inside and polygonal outside (typical for all Ravenna basilicas) and was decorated by vast mosaics that do not exist anymore. Inside the church, there is a small display of floor mosaics survived from midle ages - and one can see the huge difference and drop from late antique to medieval.
(ii) S Croce complex is also one of the oldest churches in town but now partly destroyed and changed. What is now called as Mausoleum of Galla Placidia (but it would be better to call it martyrium with mosaic of martyr S Lawrence inside) was originally part of this church (now, they are separated by fence). It had shape of multiple latin crosses. The nearby church of S Maria Maggiore was built a bit later, and there are indications that its apsida was originaly separate central building - most likely real mausoleum.
(iii) The large ancient burial complex were located a bit far from S Vitale close to basilica of S Francesco (there are original antique mosaics in the crypt flooded by water - switch-on the light by tossing a 1 EUR coin inside....).
(iv) Basilica Ursiana was predecesor of baroque cathedral of Ravenna. The cathedral is not very applealing now, but original basilica was decorated by huge mosaics (fractions of 12th century mosaics such as blessing virgin Mary are displayed in the museum). Neonian babtistery and S Andrea chapel were original parts of this episcopal complex. Only archeology would answer the questions what parts of original basilica are buried under baroque shell of today`s cathedral.
(v) Spirito Santo church (just opposite to Arian Babtistry) is former Arian cathedral and has typical shape of basilica of Ravenna (three naves, wooden ceiling of main nave, antique columns, and absida round inside but polygonal outside).
(vi) S Michele in Africisco is still partly preseved as a small church close to Piazza del Popolo and it is part of a private shop now. Remainings of arches and original absida are visible if you enter the shop. The fully reconstructed mosaics were moved to Bode Museum in Berlin (I have not seen it yet)), and several decorative carvings I have seen in Ravenna in National Museum.
(vii) Exarchs Palace / Palace of Teodoric of still unknown origin and function is located very close to S Apolinaire Nuovo along Via di Roma (originaly Via Cesarea founded outside antient city walls in marshlands).
(viii) Domus dei Tapetti di Pietra with very fine late antique floor mosaics (mosaics of 4 seasons and of Good Shepard). It is close to S Vitale and worth-visiting.
(ix) typical cylindrical bell towers scattered all over Ravenna and one in Classe
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