Visit in December, 2020

The post made by Els for this Site is informative and comprehensive, but I will add a short review because, though my visit was also rather minimal, I utilized the alternative entry point to the park. Specifically, the gate reached by turning off the main highway at Mubuku. From there a dirt/gravel road gains 700 meters of elevation over 17 kilometers, with a variable quality, but which can be traversed by any type of common vehicle. The route follows the Mubuku River valley, which is surprisingly densely populated with rural villages. That was an issue during the previous month of May, when a severe flash-flood tore down from the mountains of the Park, taking three lives and causing significant property damage, providing another example of the misfortunes of that particular year.

I stayed at the Ruboini Community Camp, which has the benefit of being owned and operated by local residents, which keeps the monies collected close to the community and the Park. The camp has a small restaurant and cottages, which, at the time, cost $US 25 per night. These had wood-heated hot water, but the Camp had no phone or internet service. From there it is short walk to the Park gate, though when I arrived at 9:30 AM on December 23rd I was dismayed to find the gate post unoccupied. Thinking that this might have been due to the upcoming holiday, and still feeling frustrated by recent failed attempts to get to other Sites, I snuck around the gate, intending to walk around for a few hundred meters in the Forest Zone, just so I could count the Site as visited. However, after only a couple of minutes, a Ranger came up from behind, apologizing that no one had been around when I arrived because they had all been in a “meeting.” Shortly after, I was registered for an official visit. The entry fee for international visitors was $US 35, with another $30 for the required escort to go on the trails. This, to me seemed a little costly for what would be only a short visit.

The important feature of this Park is its altitude-graduated ecology. However, to experience those aspects from that location requires a seven-day trek to the higher elevations of the Rwenzori Mountains. Just to leave the Forest Zone, and enter the Bamboo Zone involves 900 meters of elevation gain, with an additional 2,300 needed to reach the iconic Afro-Alpine Zone. Consequently, I intended to be satisfied with a walk along one of the two shorter trails near the gate, which pass through a fairly typical parcel of humid forest. The Ruboni Camp also has similar activities available, and on the following day I went on their fairly long “Forest Walk,” which actually spends most of the time along the partially-degraded habitat along the riverbank, but terminates at another section of forest that is just within the Park boundary. At $US 15, this could be a possible option for those who want to claim a visit to this Site with a minimal expense.

I appreciated seeing three species of chameleons on the latter walk, and also highly enjoyed relaxing on the Camp balcony, watching clouds periodically engulf the peaks of the mountains throughout the afternoon. The high elevation areas of this Site are usually cold, and rain or snow are to be expected, so those taking the long trek need to be well prepared.