I visited northern Ghana in November 2019. I flew from Accra to Tamale in northern Ghana, about two hours by road from Mole National Park, the country’s largest protected area. Although the national park doesn’t have many animals, it is one of the best places in West Africa to see elephants and is one of few parks that allows visitors to approach the world’s largest land animal on foot. I was able to walk within ten meters of a large, broken-tusked, indifferent male, who was destroying small trees about fifty meters from Zaina Lodge, where I spent a few days.