I had the opportunity to visit Nicaragua this summer (August 2024), and with that, its two world heritage sites. I would like to share my impressions of this place that left a great impact during the two days I was in the city and that also allowed me to get to know its streets and other monuments and museums. The enormous cathedral of the city of León is a great monument that surprised me by its size and the thickness of its walls, by its width and its horizontal shape, designed to resist the earthquakes that frequently hit the region, these features allowed the church to reach our days intact. It is striking, in addition to the dimensions of its naturally illuminated interior space, the fact that no piece of iron or other metal was required to support the building, since it is built mainly of stone, lime, salt, sea sand and the clear of thousands and thousands of bird eggs. It is actually an example to admire for all its visitors and an object of study for contemporary architects anywhere in the world.

To fully enjoy the experience, it is necessary to purchase the three tours offered by the cathedral in the rear (eastern) part of the building. These are, one that gives access to the roof of the cathedral, another that covers the Patio del Príncipe, the art gallery, the baptistery and the tabernacle chapel and the last one to the basements of the cathedral.

There is a great variety of pieces of art of great value inside and outside the cathedral, such as the sculptures and reliefs of the Nicaraguan master Jorge Navas Cordero, who designed the Atlanteans that hold the “Rubén Darío” bell in the north tower of the Leon Cathedral, which can be better admired if you buy a ticket to access the roof of the cathedral, and as already mentioned, it is necessary to take off your shoes so as not to wear out the white cover. On the roof there are volunteers who offer a guided tour and explain in detail the usefulness of the small ventilated domes that can be seen as well as other points of the city that can be admired from above, although I do not know if the volunteers offer the tour in English or another language besides Spanish. Almost all the sculptures inside the building are also the work of Navas, such as the apostles attached to the pillars, the lions that guard the exterior of the cathedral, as well as the “león doliente" (suffering lion) on the most famous tomb in the complex, that of the national poet Ruben Darío.

The general description on the UNESCO website mentions that León cathedral houses, among other works of art, a Flemish wooden altarpiece dating from the 16th or 15th century, according to historians. This piece represents the “Last Supper of Jesus with his disciples”, it was brought from Spain in caravels to León Viejo, from where it was taken to the current cathedral and according to the guide, the altar had been seen by Leonardo da Vinci himself, on one of his trips to the Netherlands. It is possible to actually see it, but for this purpose it is necessary to buy another guided tour, this time to the basements of the cathedral. It is located in the basement closest to the south entrance, which has a wooden door, and the one closest to Rubén Darío's tomb. Given its age and its very fragile state (it has lost all its polychrome), it is not allowed to take photographs of the altarpiece, or even get close to it, as it is located inside a vault, protected by a grill door and a camera that monitors if you get close to dare to take out your camera or your cell phone. Yes, you may have a heavy penalty, but don't worry, there are multiple images on the internet so it's not worth the risk of taking the souvenir. The tour also includes a visit to two other basements that are open to the public and that keep other historical relics of the city. The other basements are closed and have been very useful for their technology that has allowed the building to be cushioned and protected from the damage of strong earthquakes.

The other relic that the cathedral protects and that is much more accessible without the need for a guided tour and in a better state of conservation is the so-called “Cristo de Pedrarias”, the second oldest image of Christ in America and which has already been mentioned by other travelers. It is a not large image and if you want to admire it and take photos, it is in its own space on the left side of the main altar. Its importance is historical but it did not have a great impact on me like other pieces of art.

It is not difficult to get to the city of León by public transport. From wherever you are in Managua, take an Uber to the small interlocal bus station called UCA on “Pista Juan Pablo II” avenue. The minivan takes approximately one hour and twenty minutes to León station where you will find tuk-tuks and taxi drivers offering their service. I suggest leaving the station to 6th Street and taking a bus that leaves you one block from the cathedral and is much cheaper.