First published: 11/09/18.

Nan 3.5

Aachen Cathedral

Aachen Cathedral (Inscribed)

Aachen Cathedral by Els Slots

One of the first sites inscribed on the world heritage list is Aachen Cathedral. It was part of the first batch of sites in 1978 and is also the first German site to be inscribed. While some German additions in the 80s are dubious (looking at you Hildesheim), there can be little doubt that Aachen belongs on the list.

Standing in the octogonal chapel you can clearly trace the architecture back to San Vitale in Ravenna. There is a reason they call the period Carolingian Renaissance. They were trying to reclaim some of the glory of Rome and Late Antiquity and it shows. And albeit the Cathedral pales in comparison to the Pantheon, the Hagia Sophia or the afore mentioned San Vitale, it is clearly a major step up from the Longobards in Italy.

Now I have to admit that I am a bit biased on this one. Aachen is my alma mater, having studied at the glorious RWTH. I have visited the site frequently while I was a local. Every guest of mine had the privilege to see what the Öcher (local term for person from Aachen) got in their trade with the devil (more below): a unique church and the single most outstanding example of Carolingian architecture world wide, a truly world class site.

Since Charlemagne's times the cathedral has undergone significant changes. The original palace complex of Charlemagne to which the church belonged is gone. The church has grown substantially as several chapels were added all around the central octogan, one even being larger than the main octagon.

In the Baroque period they also remodelled the church interior in Baroque style with plenty of marble. Fortunately, this was undone in the 20th century. If you visit the museum, you can see pictures prior to the remodelling.

Legends

Several legends are tied ot the Aachen Cathedral, the most famous being the deal of the citizens of Aachen with the devil. The citizens promissed the devil the soul of the first visitor to the church for his help in finishing the construction. But when he came back to the finished church to collect his prize he got shortshifted. He found a wolf where he had expected a human. In his anger he slammed the church door, but one of fingers got stuck and tore. To this day the main church door holds his finger.

The story even continues. In his anger the devil planned to burry the church below a mountain of sand. He carried a huge sack of sand on his back nearly all the way to Aachen. But just short of the city line he took a break and asked a local woman how much further it would be to Aachen. Realizing whom she was talking to, she lied and pointed at her shoes."You see in what poor state they are in? That's how far I have walked from Aachen to get here." Tired and desparate the devil dropped the sack and went home. The spot where he dropped his back is now the local hill, the Lousberg.

Visiting

The main part of the church is free. However, if you want to get to the upper levels you will need to join a tour. The tour also includes the treasury. The church tower also can be accessed occasionally. I managed once, but can't recall the occasion

The upper levels hold Charlemagne's throne built from plaster stones sought to originate from Jerusalem. For centuries German emperors would come to Aachen for their coronation.

Getting There

Aachen is well connected by regional train to the two centers of North Rhine Westphalia: Düsseldorf and Köln. There is also a local bus connecting Aachen to nearby Maastricht as well as regional trains to Heerlen in the Netherlands and Liege in Belgium.

Due to its location on the main fast rail axis from Cologne to Paris via Brussels you have plenty of options continuing your travels, even to London.

While You Are There

A few things for the tourist to do:

  • If you arrive in Christmas season (recommended), have a Glühwein at the steps of the Dom on the Katschhof. The whole city is covered by Christmas markets, but the Katschhof between Town Hall and Dom is the place to be.
  • Taste Printen. I would opt for the chocolate ones. True Printen are a bit hard to take.
  • Take a stroll along the pubs and restaurants of the Pontstraße up to the Ponttor. The medieval parts of Aachen are scattered across the city and while not WHS material still worthwhile exploring.
  • Get a free drink at the Elisenbrunnen. Hard to miss, just follow the smell.
  • Go to the Lindt Factory Outlet store.
  • Climb the Lousberg to get a view of the city thanks to the devil's intervention.
  • If you want to see the Centre Pompidou done wrong, the University Hospital of Aachen will not fail to deliver. Feel free to wander around the endless green hallways.

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