In 2023, I visited several components as part of a week-long road trip through Portugal. We started in Porto at the school of architecture (FAUP) and we continued the same day by car to Matosinhos for the two components there. A few days later, I visited the Expo Pavilion in Lisbon together with Samuel and Natasa.

The most memorable building of those I saw was the Piscina for its scenic location facing the Atlantic. The architecture of the sites felt fairly common and followed general modernist trends. Perhaps only an architect can spot the local sprinkle Alvaro Siza gave his buildings; I couldn't.

What I did spot were two egregious safety issues, akin to those reported by Ian. At FAUP, there was an inclined staircase without a rail on one side (see picture), so anyone walking straight would fall several meters. At the Piscina, there was a low-hanging concrete roof (<1.50m) where you could hit your head brutally. From Le Corbusier, I am used to Modernist buildings lacking in basic amenities (e.g. too few toilets in his Tokyo museum). I had not yet encountered an architect ignoring common sense regarding basic safety measures.

OUV

While I may appreciate its style and local importance, its limitations in terms of global impact raise concerns for me. These are not buildings that have sparked a global architectural movement (e.g., Bauhaus), but rather local interpretations of styles developed by earlier generations of architects. Making my point, Els refers to his architecture as "Le Corbusier-ish", very true.

Furthermore, the fact that the buildings were constructed relatively recently made me question the criteria for inscription on the World Heritage List. Shouldn't a site have to be of a certain age or historical significance to be considered a heritage site? Is it enough for a structure to represent a certain style or philosophy of architecture, or does it need to have a wider impact on the global architectural scene? The Pritzker Prize for architecture should not be a precursor to a UNESCO listing.

While I can appreciate the ensemble's significance in its local context, its recent construction and limited global impact make it difficult to fully embrace as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I would at least recommend waiting a few decades and then revisiting the subject to see if the buildings have stood the test of time.

How to Get There

It's important to note that the components of the ensemble are spread out across different locations in Portugal. The two main components of the ensemble are the Boa Nova Tea House and the Leça Swimming Pool, both of which are located in the coastal town of Matosinhos, a suburb of Porto. Other components, such as the Faculty of Architecture at the University of Porto and the Serralves Museum of Contemporary Art, are located in the city of Porto proper.

To visit the Boa Nova Tea House and the Leça Swimming Pool, you can take the metro from Porto to Matosinhos. Once there, you can walk along the picturesque coastal path that leads from the tea house to the swimming pool, which offers stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean.

In Porto, the Faculty of Architecture at the University of Porto is located near the Carolina Michaelis metro station, while the Serralves Museum of Contemporary Art is located near the Casa da Música metro station. The easiest option is probably the Expo Pavilion in Lisbon, which is within walking distance of the Oriente metro station.

While You Are There

Both Porto and Lisbon are well worth a visit and boast their own WHS (Belem, Oporto).

From Lisbon the following WHS are in reach:

• Belem
• Cultural Landscape of Sintra: Take the train from Rossio station to Sintra station.
• Historic Centre of Évora: Take the bus from Lisbon Sete Rios bus station to Évora.

From Porto:

• Porto
• Guimarães: Take the train from Porto's São Bento station to Guimarães.
• Douro Valley: There is a train line running along the Douro to the core zone. You may also want to check out some of the tentative sites of the area.