Being only able to visit one cluster of sites, we focused on Iksan and Wanggung-ri, following Philipp's recommendation. Both mark the final bout of the Baekje Kingdom around 600-700 CE, before it was swallowed up by the neighboring Silla Kingdom. Baekje had been on a downward spiral for a while. Their last semi-great, i.e., ambitiuous, king, Mu, tried to revitalize the kingdom by planning a new capital around Mireuksa and strengthening the state. However, he ultimately failed, and his successor was the last king of an independent Baekje.

The other two locations mark earlier periods of Baekje (Gongju 475–538, Buyeo 538-660). In the southward shift of the capitals, you can see the continuous growing pressure from the north and the competing kingdoms.

What you see today in Mireuksa was discovered only in 1980. The tangible structures were reconstructed, with the second restoration ending in 2018. What I found well done were the markings of the city layout (see picture). You could imagine the city and walking its streets, all the while not imagining too much.

Wanggung-ri is the lesser of the two sites. You get the hills and can envision the fortifications, but Mireuksa leaves the better overall impression. Mireuksa also features the better museum with stellar artifacts (do not miss).

Personally, I was left a bit wanting. These structures are parallel in time to the Roman Empire. The site pales in comparison to the remains of earlier sites from Antiquity (any site in Greece) and Late Antiquity (Ravenna). While Koreans may be overly invested in the Three Kingdoms period (Silla, Baekje, Goguryeo, plus minor polities like Gaya), I doubt the different regional flavours are that distinctive on a global level.

Getting There

Iksan has a KTX station. On weekdays, you can catch a bus to the site, but the bus does not run on holidays or weekends. Word of advice: Don't use Google Maps for directions in Korea, or you might end up waiting at a bus stop for a bus that isn't coming.

We ended up taking an Uber to Mireuksa Temple, a taxi to Wanggung-ri, and another taxi to Jeonju. The two taxis were arranged by the museums.

While You Are There

Iksan itself is uneventful. Nearby Jeonju is the better location for tourists. It's not WHS material, but it has good tourist infrastructure and an "old" town to explore. It's also the home of Bibimbap.