Arriving at Gjirokaster, I wasn’t sure what to expect. At first glance, there were no notable structures. Gjirokaster seemed to consist exclusively of the usual communist concrete fare. So was this it? Luckily not.

Historically, the valley of the Drino River was reserved for agriculture. The locals built their towns and villages on the slopes of the surrounding hills and mountains. And up in the hills, you will find in Gjirokaster: a great example of Ottoman architecture in the Balkans. Frankly, during my travels, I have seen nothing comparable in the Balkans.

As recommended by Els I visited the Zekate house. I also went to the castle. But mostly I enjoyed strolling through the cobblestone streets and taking pictures of the Ottoman houses covering the hillsides.

To me, this is a unique site that embodies the Ottomans and the Balkans. It’s also a great representative for Albania and their culture. I think it’s well worth a visit. Be prepared, though, for an almost obsessive-compulsive level of guest friendliness.

Getting There

The easiest access point for southern Albania including Gjirokastra is Corfu. There are plenty of connections from Europe to the Greek island. From Corfu several daily ferries can take you to Saranda in Albania. You will even gain 20min as the ferry takes 40min and Greece is one hour ahead of Albania. From Saranda, you can take a minibus. These depart in front of the synagogue ruins on Rruga Flamurit. The bus stop is Gjirokaster is down in the valley.

While You Are There

Visiting both Corfu and Butrint is possible from Saranda.

On your way to Gjirokaster, you can also visit the Blue Eye. It’s promoted heavily to tourists and part of the standard itinerary of a day trip of cruise ship guests. But I found it underwhelming, especially as there are no hiking trails into the hills. If you want to visit nonetheless, ask the driver to let you off at the entry. From there it’s 20min walk to the site. To continue to your destination, return to the road and signal the minibus (they pass hourly).

The tradition of agriculture has continued to this day. Nearby Lazarat is a leading supplier for weed in Europe. I would discourage visiting.