First published: 16/04/24.

Nan 2.5

Choirokoitia

Choirokoitia (Inscribed)

Choirokoitia by Nan

Choirokoitia, by virtue of being a Palaeolithic site, doesn’t draw hordes of visitors. Recent efforts by the Cypriots have enhanced the visitor experience with updated amenities like parking, toilets, signs, and new trails. However, during our Easter holiday visit, we found ourselves as the sole explorers.

The site primarily comprises settlement foundations nestled on a hill slope, surrounded by walls that once enclosed a town housing around 500 inhabitants. A small river runs behind the hill.

All the buildings were circular and constructed from layered stones. This architectural style mirrors the Nuraghi structures in Sardinia but stands apart from Çatalhöyük across the sea in Türkiye, where rectangular buildings dominate. The absence of “glue” in Choirokoitia’s construction prevented sharp corners, unlike the use of mud bricks in Çatalhöyük.

Similar to Çatalhöyük, the deceased were interred beneath the buildings. I always wonder what you did about the smell or what would have happened if a kid or a dog dug a little into the mud floor...

Notably, Choirokoitia’s civilization predates pottery, as no pottery remnants have been discovered. Around 7000 BCE, the city flourished, but by 6000 BCE, it was abandoned. Contrary to previous assumptions, the entire island wasn’t deserted during this period.

A fascinating titbit: According to German Wikipedia, Choirokoitia is believed to be the first place outside Africa to import cats — very fitting for the island of cats.

When exploring ancient sites, I always grade on a curve. Considering its age of 9000 years and the primitive methods used in its construction, Choirokoitia remains astonishingly tangible. While it may not match Orkney’s grandeur, it certainly deserves a place on the list of remarkable historical sites.

Getting There

Choirokoitia to this day boasts a well-chosen location, as it remains strategically positioned along the main highway connecting Limassol to Nikosia and Larnaka. Intercity buses running between Limassol and Larnaka make stops here, and there are also occasional buses from Paphos and Nikosia that stop. To plan your visit, check the intercity bus schedule online to confirm stops at Choirokoitia.

Upon arrival, you’ll find the bus stop in front of the Oasis restaurant. You will also find a "bus station" sign across the parking lot. This is incorrect, the busses stop at the restaurant.

From the bus stop, a short walk along the road leads to the archaeological site. While you don't have to worry about the highway (there is a tunnel), you still have to walk along the road. The walk takes less than 10 minutes in total.

We arrived from Paphos via Limassol and returned to Limassol for the afternoon. We nearly missed our return bus at the Oasis restaurant because we waited at the (incorrect) bus stop sign and because the buses came from a different direction than anticipated:

  • Buses from Limassol arrive via the tunnel.
  • Buses heading to Limassol approach directly from the highway (South).

While You Are There

Cyprus is small. If you arrive by car, you can connect to all sites of the island. Along the highway are some more archaeological sites, e.g., Amathous or Tenta, the latter having been part of the original nomination and considered older.

 

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