First published: 02/05/24.

Nan 4.0

Ephesus

Ephesus (Inscribed)

Ephesus by Nan

In his review, Jay highlights the high quality of the Turkish tentative list, being surprised that Ephesos, one of the most iconic Greco-Roman archaeological sites, was only inscribed in 2015. I have to agree with him, and it speaks volumes to the quality of Turkey's tentative list. Ephesos highlights are the library, the agora, and the mosaics. It also includes the ruins of the Temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the world, and documents a long period of settlement from the Neolithic to Medieval times:

  • The Cukurici Mound, located a bit south of the town, covers the Neolithic origins of the site.
  • The ruins of the Temple of Artemis represent a high point of the classical and Hellenistic period.
  • The main archaeological site is primarily Roman, with the Odeon, the Library, and the Terrace Houses with their mosaics being the prime structures.
  • The Chapel of St Mary, from late antiquity, signifies Ephesus’s prominent role in early Christianity.
  • The castle and the church are Byzantine. While these may feel underwhelming when compared to the archaeological site, these components round up the overall historic picture of the site and should at least warrant a short visit.

The area was settled for a long time due to the harbour, which made it a principal trading port and a rich agricultural hinterland. However, in the later Roman period, it silted up, leading to the city’s long decline. Today, Selcuk is a small provincial town, and Izmir, ancient Smyrna, is the main trade port on the Aegean.

The most memorable structure in the archaeological site is the reconstructed library facade. Despite ongoing discussions about restorations, the Austrian archaeologists have done a splendid job, making the site and its history more tangible.

When I visited (Dec 2021), extensive works were ongoing on the amphitheatre, filling gaps with modern concrete structures (see the crane in my picture). Despite potential concerns about the intrusiveness of the new construction, the view from the high ranks down to the agora and the central road with its pillars is impressive.

To sum it up, I have to agree with Digits: Even for those who have seen plenty of Roman ruins before, a visit to Ephesos will be a great experience.

Getting There

Ancient Ephesus is in modern day Selçuk. You can reach it from Izmir and Denizli by bus and occasional trains. I came from Izmir by train and also left for Denizli by train.

In town, there are minibuses touring the road to Kuşadası on the coast, also stopping at the main entrance to Ephesus. I couldn't quite figure out the schedule, so I walked. There is a large sidewalk, so no issues and the Temple of Artemis, the former world wonder, lies in between.

Being on foot, I skipped the Southern parts, i.e., the Mounds and the Chapel.

While You Are There

The larger area holds plenty of tentative sites (Kaunos!) and several great world heritage sites in Pergamon, Aphrodisias, and Pamukkale. Depending on the Greek-Turkish border situation and tourist season, you may also catch a ferry to Samos. At my time (off season), there were border tensions and I hadn't been aware of the option.

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