First published: 02/06/23.

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Mértola at sunrise

Mértola (On tentative list)

Mértola is a charming town in the Alentejo region of Portugal, with a rich and varied history dating back to the Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths and Arabs. Its strategic location on the River Guadiana gave it a maritime past. It continued to be a port until the 18th century, and the submerged wharf from that period can still be seen today.

A former mosque, now a church.
Church of Nossa Senhora da Anunciação nan

The town lies at the foot of a medieval castle, and there are several archaeological sites in the town, including one at the southern end and one under the castle walls, where the ruins of a Late Antique baptistery have been discovered. The most impressive building in Mértola, however, is the former mosque, built during the Islamic period and later converted into the Church of Nossa Senhora da Anunciação. It's believed to be the only mosque in Portugal from this period that still retains its original features, such as the mihrab and horseshoe arches. The town's picturesque cobbled streets and white houses add to its charm.

Streets of Mertola
Streets of Mertola nan

During my visit, I had to explore the city's sites before they opened as I was catching an early bus. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the experience and took some nice pictures of the town, which was still covered in clouds (pictured). The best view of Mértola is from the main bridge over the Guadiana River (agree with Clyde).

OUV

Mértola was originally slated for World Heritage status in the near future, but according to this website, the Portuguese government seems to have prioritised other tentative sites, including Vila Viçosa.

Personally, I think Vila Viçosa is a weaker candidate than Mértola. Although I don't consider Mértola to be an exceptionally strong candidate, its long and varied history, including Phoenician, Roman and Arab traces, with tangible Arab heritage remaining, makes a more compelling case than the ducal Renaissance town of Vila Viçosa. However, both towns are overshadowed by nearby Évora, which also dates back to Roman times and has a significant amount of Roman remains.

The main differences between Mértola and Évora are Mértola's historic function as a port and its remarkable Arabic history, culminating in the mosque. Although it occupies a distinct niche, I'm not entirely convinced that this is enough to warrant inscription on the World Heritage List.

How to get there

Occasional buses run from Monte Gordo to Lisbon and back, with a stop in Mértola. You can connect in Beja to other destinations like Évora, Elvas, and Vila Viçosa. You can also cross the border into Spain from Monte Gordo/Faro.

The bus stop in Mértola is located at the Northern roundabout in front of the kiosk.

During my trip from Évora to Monte Gordo via Beja, the bus was severely delayed in Beja, to the point that I thought it wouldn't arrive. However, it eventually did, and I was dropped off at the roundabout in Mértola late at night. Unfortunately, the return bus to Lisbon ran early next day (or really late in the evening), so I had to start my sight seeing early at sunrise.

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