Not sure how and why, but I got in. As Ian can attest, I didn’t believe it would work out till I held my official permit (diamonitirion) in my hands and had boarded the ferry. And then it settled in, I did it!

Given Mount Athos’ restrictions on visitors, I was one of ten non Orthodox male visitors that day. Albeit visitor is the wrong term as everybody is considered a pilgrim. Please bear that in mind when you travel there.

In addition 100 Orthodox Christians are allowed entry each day. At least that’s what is communicated officially. When I looked at the large crowd on my return ferry and the hard time I had to get a seat, I came to doubt, if they really stick to these numbers each and every day.

On Mount Athos I visited two major monasteries (Agiou Panteleimonos and Xeropotamou) and a skiti (Evaggelismos tis Theotokou). I hiked along the coast line taking in the gorgeous scenery and nature the monasteries are embedded in. Seeing Klaus brought it up, this is a mixed site and I feel deservedly so. I visited in spring and all flowers were in bloom. The trees colored the mountain sides in a lush green. And the entry restrictions of the area serve as a perfect protection from the mass tourism found all along the Greek and Turkish coast.

I stayed overnight at the Russian monastery. It was undergoing heavy construction work and looks rather modern. The sheer size of it and the surprising number of balconies had me wondering if this acted as a winter resort for Russian monks. Being a monk must have its perks. Being woken at 3.30h for morning prayer wouldn’t be one of those, though.

Interestingly, the schedule was well aligned with the one I had to follow while staying at Haeinsa. Being a Buddhist or a Christian monk seems to come with similar requirements. And both seem to have a similar taste for exquisite scenery.

On an educational level I found my temple stay in Haeinsa more interesting. The Russians treated me as a pilgrim providing food and shelter and allowing me to participate in the daily ceremonies. They did not provide any information. The Buddhists meanwhile went to great length to explain their ways and their faith.

Getting In

The internet offers ample resources on the subject. What it boils down to is:

1. Write an email to athosreservation@gmail.com specifying your date and if you are an Orthodox Christian or not. And yes, at the time of writing the pilgrim’s office uses a gmail address.
2. If they say yes, send them a copy of your passport.
3. Two weeks prior to your arrival, call them to confirm.
4. On arrival to Ouranopoulis pick up your permit at the pilgrim’s office.

When you board the boat and each time you arrive at a monastery you plan to stay at, you will be asked for your permit, so keep it safe.

Getting a Monastery

With your stay confirmed by the pilgrim’s office, call the monasteries you want to stay at. Some use email, but most don’t. My Russian monastery was a nice distraction. Still, I would recommend staying in a more traditional Greek one. Lavra comes to mind being the most ancient one.

Please check that you can make it in time. At sunset all monasteries close their gate. Better to arrive in the afternoon.

Getting There (and Away)

Most pilgrims come in from Thessaloniki. The bus terminal (Halkidiki) connecting Ouranopoulis is well South of the city, quite close to the airport actually. You can check the schedule online. Be advised that the schedule differs for weekdays and weekends. Tickets can be bought directly at the bus terminal in cash. Get a return ticket. I would also recommend picking up some cash from the ATM in the bus terminal as you won’t get any in Mount Athos. The trip will take between 2.5h and 3h.

To get to Halkidiki, you are probably best off taking a cab (18€), because the bus terminal is badly connected via public transport. If you are opting for the early bus to Ouranopolis, you won’t have much choice anyhow. Meanwhile, on my way back I waited 45min for a bus to take me back into town that never materialized.

In Ouranopulis get off at the first stop. Pick up your permit and head to the ferry. The big ferries do not require a reservation, the fast ones do. Again, reservations need to be done by phone for the most part. Most ferries go to Daphni, but some do extra stops in between or continue onwards. Check the time plan and where your monastery is.

To get back I would recommend the 12:10h slow ferry. Tickets can be bought near the customs office in Daphni. It’s arrival in Ouranopolis is aligned with the bus for Thessaloniki. The added kicker is that it stops at several monasteries on the way, so you get a close look and picture opportunity on the way back. If possible get a seat facing the coast line.

Getting Around

Athos must be a hiker’s dream come true: Pristine landscape with no crowds and free dormitories. What is not to like? Well, seeing how few people actually hike on the peninsula, the trails are in bad shape. I actually fell pretty badly once. The sign posting leaves much to be desired. If you are serious about hiking, you will have to buy a proper map. And finally, outside Daphni and Karyes you will have a hard time getting provisions, so bring all you need. Apart from hiking you can also take mini busses from Daphni (reserve) or a ferry (reserve) to get from one monastery to another.

Miscellaneous

You can find plenty of resources on Athos online. Surprisingly in a sense, taking into account how many people are actually able to visit each year (less than 40.000).

If you aren’t lucky getting a permit or you happen to be female, one option is to do the cruise along the shore.

Finally, I am not sure this belongs in the Thessaloniki hotspot. While technically possible to do be done on a stressful day trip, you should stay overnight.