When we look at a historic map, e.g. one of the Byzantine Empire under Basil II, it easily looks as if they controlled whole areas, akin to a modern nation state. In reality, the territory governed was often limited to the major fortified and garrisoned towns, the vicinity and (maybe) the roads connecting the towns. Rural and remote corners were often outside of state control, with a local ruler potentially paying lip service to the central government in a far away capital. As long as they didn't cause major annoyances warranting a punitive expedition (and sometimes even if), they were left to their own devices.

This is especially true of the Balkans, a territory claimed by the Eastern Roman Empire for centuries. The Balkans, the inner parts heavily forested and mountainous, allowed the locals to retreat easily. Even where accessibility was less of an issue, e.g. the plains of Bulgaria, horse nomads could simply move their tribe.

Therefore, to govern the Balkans and project power the Romans relied on garrison towns, especially fortified towns on the coast. On water, having naval supremacy for long periods, they could move troops and provisions fast and safely. Roads, meanwhile, were often subject to attacks, e.g. the Via Egnatia, the famous Roman road connecting Dyrrhachium (Durres), the ferry port to Italy, with Constantinople wasn't always open.

Nessebar was part of this coastal town network. The Roman name was Mesembria and the settlement dates back to a Greek colony from the 600-500 BCE. The town is situated on a peninsula with a hill, easy to defend. The sea has swallowed up parts of it that are now below sea level. After the rise of the Bulgar Empire around 800 CE, it was exchanged hands between Constantinople and the Bulgars repeatedly.

What you find today, apart from the ubiquitous tourist shops and restaurants that make up most of today's old town, are some fortifications and ruins. The best parts of the inscription are the Byzantine churches that remain. While it's pleasant to visit, I was not awed and have seen better medieval or Byzantine towns.

Getting There

Nessebar is a popular day trip for tourists on Bulgaria's Black Sea resorts. Bulgaria's largest tourist resort, aptly named Sunny Beach (Слънчев бряг), has grown directly on its footsteps and it's one urban area nowadays. There seem to be bus connections directly to/from Nessebar. From Sunny Beach, you have more options, most notably to Burgas and Varna, the two international airports of the area. The bus station in Sunny Beach (at the time of my visit) was a parking lot off the main road.

While You Are There

If you have a car, there are several WHS in the area to visit. However, I was not impressed by any. The best Bulgarian WHS are near Sofia (Boyana, Rila, Pirin) which is too far for a daytrip. And even those aren't great. Only reason to come to the Bulgarian Black Sea coast is if you enjoy packaged vacation deals and cheap all inclusive buffets and drinks.