In the Troödos region, you’ll find historic, medieval Painted Churches. Exploring these requires a car or multi-day hikes and luck to get the keys. We limited our exploration to Ayios Nikolaos tis Steyis near Kakopetria, the only church accessible by public transport with official opening hours.

The church, built with local resources, is simple and sturdy on the outside, protecting it against the elements. It looks more like a farmhouse than a church or chapel. Inside, though, it’s an opulently painted Byzantine church.

Walking up from Kakopetria offered us a scenic view of the surrounding landscape. The church’s location, near a river flowing down the mountains, provides a meditative calm, akin to a Cistercian abbey. The mountainous location should have also helped in protecting these treasures from coastal raids.

We initially planned to visit Panayia Podhithou in the next village. However, due to extraordinarily high temperatures for March (30°), the additional 5km walk, and uncertainty about entry, we opted for a coffee in Kakopetria Old Town instead. We caught a glimpse of Panayia Podhithou from the bus when we left for Nikosia. An outside visit would have added to the experience as the connection to farmhouses is even more visible in Panayia Podhithou with its thatched roof.

Having visited only one church, it’s difficult to assess the site’s overall potential. Based on Riccardo’s statement that Ayios Nikolaos tis Steyis is one of the better ones, these churches seem less impressive compared to those in Romania (Churches of Moldavia). I have also fonder memories of the level of artistry in Boyana Chapel in Sofia. And none of them compare to the Chora Church in Istanbul.

Getting There

Cyprus isn’t particularly geared toward getting around without a car. If you find yourself without a vehicle and want to avoid spending a lot on taxis, here are your options:

• Join a tour group: Look for day trip offerings from beach resorts to the Troödos mountains. Keep in mind that these tours often focus on other sites in the Troödos region rather than the Troöds churches. Before booking, check if an inscribed church visit is included.
• Take a bus: You can catch a bus from either Limassol (once a day: #64 -> #87) or Nicosia (multiple times: #405) to Kakopetria. From there, you’ll need to walk.

We followed Tsunami’s approach. We took the morning bus (#64) from Limassol (bus stops along the beach promenade) to Troödos Square at 9:15. At Troödos Square, we enjoyed our best coffee in Cyprus at Café 1725 and embarked on a small hike toward Mount Olympus. Later, at 13:00 (though the schedule indicated 12:50, the driver firmly stated 13:00 as his departure time), we caught another bus (#87) to Kakopetria. Bus #87 arrives in Troödos from Kakopetria at 12:30 and takes a 30-minute break in Troödos before returning, so it’s easy to spot. The bus stand is across the street from where you’re dropped off upon arriving in Troödos.

In Kakopetria, after leaving our luggage at the hotel, we walked to Agios Nikolaos tis Steyis. To reach it, we followed the main (car) road. On our return, we took an idyllic hiking trail (Vateri Hiking Trail) along the river, which you can find on Komoot.

If you’re coming from Troödos Square, Bus #87 continues past Kakopetria toward Galata. To save yourself one walk, consider getting off at Galata first to visit Panayia Podhithou before heading to Kakopetria.

The next day, we took bus #405 to Nicosia. The bus terminates in the suburbs of Nicosia, so you’ll need to catch another bus (such as 10 or 11) to reach the town centre at Solomou Square.

Note: Buses in Cyprus can be confusing. Essentially, there are two types:

• Intercity Buses: These run across the entire island, connecting major cities and making some random stops along the way.
• Regional Buses: These serve specific regions, such as Nicosia and Limassol. Keep in mind that Kakopetria is in the Nicosia district, while Troödos is in Limassol. That’s why you need to take two buses to get from Limassol to Kakopetria. Within the regional buses, you’ll also find “rural” buses; these are what you are looking for.

Lastly, if you want to explore more churches, you either need to hike or take a cab in Kakopetria or Troödos.

While You’re There

We found the small old town (a single street along the riverbank) of Kakopetria quite charming. The hiking trail was also fun.

If you’re looking for a dinner option, we highly recommend Taverna stou Zoppi. They serve very traditional, homemade Meze. Just be prepared—they’ll bring out multiple rounds of food. In my case, as my girlfriend is a pescatarian, I ended up eating double portions of the meat dishes; they were delicious. I had to give up eventually, it was just too much. For dessert, they served candied orange peel, a local delicacy. Total price was very reasonable at 25€ per person (2024).