First published: 20/04/24.

Nan 2.5

Paphos

Paphos (Inscribed)

Paphos by Nan

During our visit to Paphos, we focused on two key components, beginning with the tombs. Although these structures are referred to as “tombs for kings,” they actually served as burial sites for the upper class during the Ptolemaic era, when Cyprus was under Egyptian influence. While some of the tombs are quite spacious, their ornamentation remains relatively minimal. Personally, I had anticipated more intricate stonework beyond the simple pillars. Still, the views you get and the location on the coast are nice.

From the tombs, we strolled along the coast to the main archaeological area. Here, the true highlight lies in the mosaics, which cover extensive portions of the site. These mosaics are great, with some displaying a surprisingly modern aesthetic. However, I must admit that they don’t quite surpass the remarkable mosaics found at Villa Romana del Casale, which to me stands in a league of its own. Interestingly, Els’ review of the mosaics here in Paphos is more enthusiastic than those at Villa Romana del Casale.

Getting There

Paphos boasts an airport, serviced for instance by Ryanair. If you arrive during reasonable hours and avoid delays, catching a bus to town is a viable option. However, be prepared: Cypriot taxi drivers resist using taximeters and will overcharge you, quoting 50€ for a 15-minute ride. As a backup, consider installing the Bolt app; even then, the taxi fare to Paphos city was 35€. We found a German couple to split the costs.

From Karavella Bus Station in Paphos (located uphill), you can hop on intercity buses connecting to Nikosia, Larnaka, and Limassol. We left by bus bound for Larnaka and disembarked at Choirokoitia. Most of the travel time was spent doing loops in Limassol and being stuck in traffic.

Exploring Paphos on foot is entirely feasible. Additionally, there’s a bus linking the port area to the town (uphill) and another bus running along the coast to the tombs. If you choose to walk, note that Google Maps incorrectly suggests walking across the fenced archaeological site. Walking along the coast (counterclockwise) is a lengthy detour.

We skipped on the third component, as it takes effort working out bus connections in Cyprus. Google Maps does not help you.

While You’re There

For the romantics among us, a nighttime swim around Aphrodite’s Rock is a must. As for us, we skipped it; let's hope I didn't destroy my chances.

Unlike some previous reviewers, we decided against beach hotels on the coast. Instead, we opted for a place in Paphos proper, perched on the hill. It's a charming, relaxing old town. For dinner, we wholeheartedly recommend Onar, a modern, fine-dining take on Meze.

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