Arriving by car from Bukhara, the first thing I saw of Shakhrisyabz was the large blue dome of the Kok Gumbaz Mosque, an impressive 15th-century mosque. The mosque is a prime example of Timurid architecture. It's definitely one of the main sites to visit in Shakhrisyabz.

While I explored the other components of the site, my driver waited at the mosque's parking lot. There's essentially one long, modern walkway that connects the Kok Gumbaz Mosque and Timurid's crypt on the South side to the Ak Saray Palace at the North side, touching on all the important components like the statue of Timur, and the city walls. 

The Ak-Saray Palace was once a magnificent structure with intricate designs and beautiful tilework, but unfortunately, much of it has been destroyed. Only a few sections remain, such as the entrance portal and the massive pillars that once supported the building. Nonetheless, it's still possible to get a sense of the palace's grandeur and appreciate its impressive size and scale.

On the day I visited, Uzbeks were repurposing this piece of national identity. A youth wrestling competition took place on the palace grounds beneath the large pillars; wrestling being one of two Uzbek national sports.

While walking along the former capital of Timur and the wealth he brought to the city, I couldn't help but wonder if it's appropriate to venerate him given his brutal conquests. It is estimated that 17 million deaths were caused by Timur, the last of the Mongol conquerors. Uzbeks to this day consider him a national hero, as evidenced by his statue and the selfies everyone is taking with Timur in the background. The neighbouring countries do not share in this veneration.

Compared to other famous sites in Uzbekistan, such as Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva, I found Shakhrisyabz to be the least interesting and the weakest of the otherwise stellar bunch. The other three sites span longer periods of time. They also feature more of a historic city. Shakhrisyabz, meanwhile, is more a set of individual buildings from a specific period in history.

It's also worth noting that Shakhrisyabz has been on the UNESCO World Heritage Site in Danger list since 2016 due to concerns over the state of its historical structures and the impact of modern development on the site. The construction of a new town and a park around the historic city center led to the loss of many traditional buildings and the destruction of the city's original, albeit chaotic layout. Only small parts of the old town remain at the outskirts of town.

All in all, the visit took less than two hours. I got back to my driver and off to Samarkand we rode.

Getting There

You can visit Shakhrisyabz from Samarkand as a half day trip. Or you can do a stopover when travelling between Bukhara and Samarkand. To get to Samarkand, you have to cross a scenic mountain pass. In town, all sites are in walking distance.

While You Are There

There isn't much to report. Between Samarkand and Shakhrisyabz are two Silk Roads sites. The rest... going to Afghanistan is off limits due to security. Turkmenistan meanwhile is very restrictive about visitors.