Following Kintante's recommendation in the forum, I set out to go to Eggishorn. Leaving my apartment in Hamburg at 5 a.m. I stood on the top of the mountain at 1 p.m., a flight, two train rides and two cable cars in between. And there it was. Or better there it wasn't: The glacier was hidden from view by heavy fog. And the mountains were covered in thick snow ...

The previous day when I checked the hiking trails and the weather I was already given a warning: snow and rain. I had packed accordingly. Still, I was not prepared for how little I would actually be able to make out of my visit. The view was limited to 20m and the trails were not discernible. While I hiked a bit in direction of the viewing platform, I eventually turned around as I couldn't make out the path and simply didn't feel safe.

After I had resigned myself to the fact, that I would neither see the glacier nor be able to hike in the high mountains, I took the next cable car down to the valley. From there I went back to Brig and took the train the Kandersteg.

The scenery around Kandersteg is nice with plenty of waterfalls coming down the mountains. And due to the lower altitude the scenery wasn't hidden in heavy fog. Same applies to snow. Instead I got heavy rain.

While I have counted this as visit, I have made a mental note to come back here eventually and to see the glacier in its full beauty. This time I would come in from Milan, though, as it's closer to the Southern side of the glacier than Zurich. This is assuming, there will be some of it left when I come back.

Where to Go

The most expensive and probably also the most touristy option is to take the train up the mountain. In total be prepared to dish out 200 CHF (190 CHF for the train ticket plus 10 CHF for the seat reservation, 2017 prices). While Clyde's pictures look amazing, this is of little help on a foggy day.

If the weather permits it, the cable car to Eggishorn seems a very good and economical choice. On a clear day you get to see the glacier rolling down the mountain. And without 50cm of snow there are easy trails you can take from there. Pricewise you come in at 40 CHF and do not need to reserve in advance. Check the webcam before heading there and up.

Between Bettmerhorn and Eggishorn you can follow the Unesco trail. However, it was closed for the rest of 2017 due to repairs. And even if it had been open, the adverse weather conditions would not have allowed for it. On top, it's classified as a difficult hike.

Finally, there is the option to go to Kandersteg like Els did and I ended up doing, too. The lake, which is in the core zone, is way lower, so snow is less of a risk. If you have more time, you can just keep on walking into the mountains. Kandersteg also the cheapest option (25 CHF).

Warnings

• The Swiss seem serious about hiking and less serious about securing trails. Take the trail difficulty at face value and come equipped.
• Check the weather in the morning.
• Check the view for wherever you are heading via webcam.
• Bring proper clothes. It gets cold up there.

Getting Around and Away

Please check out the Swiss Travel Pass if you plan to use public transport. Two long train rides already cover the three day pass. On top you can take care of all tickets already from home. Finally, you also get discounts for cable cars etc. E.g. I paid 20 CHF instead of 40 CHF for the ride to Eggishorn.

From Jungfrau Aletsch you can follow the tourist masses and continue to explore the Swiss Alps, e.g. in Zermatt or Andermatt. Given the very good public transport infrastructure in Switzerland, you can easily reach most sites in western Switzerland. The closest Swiss world heritage site is Bern.

Heading South and ticking off Monte San Giorgio and Bellinzona is also possible. From Brig trains run regularly to Domodossola and Milan (2h) and the nearby Sacri Monti. I had a very nice time Lago d'Orta and encourage you to travel there.

Trivia

The Reichenbach you will pass is the Reichenbach of Sherlock Holmes fame.