We were fortunate to take the morning bus from Viterbo to Bagnoregio, as the landscape was still blanketed in slight fog, adding a mythical feel to the stunning view of Civita di Bagnoregio from the viewpoint. Also, we managed to arrive before the big tour groups from Rome that would later crowd the town.

After taking plenty of pictures, we climbed the walkway, paying the 5 EUR entrance fee to support the preservation efforts of the crumbling hill. Although I would have preferred a proper ticket instead of a thermoprinted one, it was a small price to pay.

The town itself was rather compact, and we explored the alleys, took pictures from the walls overlooking the volcanic landscape, had some ice cream, and returned to Bagnoregio. On our way back, we noticed the increasing crowds of tourists arriving, making us grateful for our earlier arrival. I should note that my travel companion struggled with the climb up to the town due to a fear of heights, but we managed to get up and down.

OUV

Before I present my case against inscribing Civita di Bagnoregio as a World Heritage site, I want to acknowledge that its stunning scenery and popularity with international tourists make it highly likely to be inscribed. So, please don't change your travel plans based on my argument.

That said, I have two concerns about the site's Outstanding Universal Value (OUV), which should be considered when evaluating its candidacy. If these criteria were applied, Civita di Bagnoregio would probably be rejected.

Firstly, a World Heritage site should offer more than just a single viewpoint. It should have depth and complexity, providing visitors with something to explore and discover. Unfortunately, Civita di Bagnoregio doesn't fulfill this criterion. A visit to the town takes less than an hour (being a bit more generous than Els), and there is little to see or do beyond taking in the stunning view and walking up and down the single road in town.

Secondly, I don't see how Civita di Bagnoregio fills any significant gap in the World Heritage List. Italy has numerous beautiful medieval hilltop towns, some of which are already World Heritage sites (such as Pienza and Assisi) or tentative sites (such as Orvieto and Otranto), or simply some of the prettiest towns in Italy (such as Locorotondo and Montepulciano). Nearby Orvieto shares the same Etruscan past but has more tangible remains and a true highlight in the duomo. Supposedly, Volterra in Tuscany has even more Etruscan sites to appreciate.

In conclusion, while Civita di Bagnoregio is undeniably a beautiful and unique town, I believe that its OUV is questionable, and it does not offer enough depth or fill a significant gap in the World Heritage List.

Getting There

To reach Civita di Bagnoregio by bus, you have two options:

• From Viterbo: The Viterbo Porta Fiorentina station has several bus stops, so finding the right one can be a challenge. Look for stop #f783 on Google Maps, which is located across the tracks behind the station on Via Francesco Baracca. It's recommended to arrive early so you have enough time to locate the bus stop.
• From Orvieto: Take a train to Orvieto and then connect to a bus, as Els did. This is the most convenient option. At least, if the connection works out.

Both bus connections are operated by Cotral, but it's important to note that Cotral can be chaotic. Double-check schedules and arrive early just in case, and buy your bus tickets through the Cotral app.

Once you arrive in Bagnoregio, there is only one stop on the main road. Bagnoregio is the modern town, and you can either walk or take a shuttle bus to Civita di Bagnoregio. While Bagnoregio is generally enjoyable, the traffic can be quite heavy as most visitors arriving by car will pass through the town on the one road to reach the parking lot at the viewpoint.

One last piece of advice: Big tour groups often visit Civita di Bagnoregio as a day trip from Rome, so if possible, try to arrive early by staying in Viterbo or Orvieto and catching the first bus.

While You Are There

We thoroughly enjoyed Viterbo, which is part of the Via Francigena tentative site. After arriving from crowded Rome, Viterbo felt like a much-needed respite.

East of Viterbo, you can find two papal villas. Sacro Bosco is a stunning but expensive visit, while glimpses of Villa Lanza from the bus window looked enticing. Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit and we had some hiccups with Cotral, so we decided to have Aperitivo in Viterbo instead.

Orvieto is also a tentative site and, as mentioned earlier, another fortified, medieval hilltown with Etruscan roots. The duomo is a must-see highlight.