First published: 05/09/20.

Nan 1

The Lofoten Islands

The Lofoten islands (On tentative list)

The Lofoten islands by Nan

Thanks to plentiful cod in the sea around the Lofoten, the Lofoten saw a huge influx of fishers each winter. From January to March each year is cod season and fishers would come past the polar circle for catching them. They would then be hung up to dry and sold South.

On the Lofoten, small fishing villages developed where fishers could land and sleep (rorbuer). Nowadays, you can rent their huts for staying yourself. These fishing villages are tucked against the mountains that form the backbone of the Lofoten. It's this combination of fishing villages and nature that marks the magic of the Lofoten.

OUV

The Lofoten would easily be Norway's second best WHS (after the fjords). OUV would be gorgeous nature combined with the fishing activities. The villages and huts are just iconic. And the views... I would probably rate it 4-4.5 stars. Similar sites I have seen so far would be Fjordland in New Zealand and Los Glaciares in Argentina, both of which I would rate higher. Fjordland is more unspoiled nature and covers a wider range of ecosystems. Los Glaciares has Perito Moreno, Fitz Roy, ...

When it comes to the question what precisely will be inscribed, the current nomination site doesn't hold much information. I would guess the bird areas on the outer islands, the National Park and the traditional fishing villages should be part of the core zone. With Ryten and Nusfjord I covered two of three of these.

Getting There

Somewhat surprising given their popularity with tourists, the Lofoten do not boast an international airport. Leknes and Svolvaer are local airports and the main flights are to Tromsø and Bodø. So even coming from Oslo you will have to change. And note: The flights are really expensive.

The standard way of reaching the Lofoten is by ferry from Bodø. Flights to Bodø are reasonably priced and unless you have a car the ferry trip to Moskenes is straightforward with great views of the coast and the islands. There is also an express boat from Bodø to Svolvaer. Connections to the smaller islands run from Moskenes.

For those keen on taking a bus, there is a bus connection from Narvik that covers most of the main towns on the Lofoten and ends in A.

Personally, I came from Bodø where I stayed overnight by ferry. And I flew out from Leknes to Tromsø from where I traveled on to Alta.

Getting Around

The Lofoten have one principal road that connects the principal towns (E10). Along the road, there are buses that run roughly every 1.5h. It's best to check the schedule in advance and plan your times accordingly. The bus stops are marked, but always safer to signal the driver to stop. Tickets are bought via app. The bus arrival / departure times in Moskenes are aligned with the ferry times.

Tiny problem with the bus stops: Several places are off the main road and require some walking. Nusfjord is a 6km walk. The trailhead for Ryten 3km. But otherwise it's fine. To find the bus connection you have to search for kryss (junction), e.g. Fredvang kryss.

Tiny problem, this time with walking: Most of the time you walk on the road. The traffic especially on the E10 can be quite heavy so it wasn't always pleasant.

Where to Stay

I stayed in Hamnoy and found that the towns between Reine and Hamnoy were the nicest. You get great sunsets, a picturesque view, there is a supermarket and a baker, and by bus you can travel to most parts of the island as a day trip. So I would recommend that.

Itinerary

I split my visit into three parts.

Day 1 - Arrival and hike up Reinebringen. Thanks to newly installed steps it's not a technically challenging hike anymore. Still, more than 1500 steps are strenuous. The views you get from the top are stunning.

Day 2 - Hike to Ryten and Kvalvika Beach. Took the bus to Fredvang Junction and then walked. Views from the bridge were (again) stunning. Views on the trail as well. The descent from Ryten to Kvalvika Beach was rather challenging as the trail was in poor shape. But who could say no to such a beautiful beach.

Day 3 - Visited A, then Nusfjord. A was rather dull and the famous bakery (not yet) open. But you did get a view of the Southern islands. Nusfjord is the oldest fishing village of the island and nowadays a preserved museum. In the evening, I departed from Leknes.

All days were great and I would recommend the same itinerary. If you stay longer, my recommendation would be to at least visit one of the outer islands. There is also a trail from A along the west coast. With even more time, you may want to look into the northern Loften.

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